Day 7
am
Overnight last night, as I was trying to handsteer a lot in strong winds, I found that the instrument lights kept going off erratically - when I pressed the button the lights always came on instantly, but then odd ones would turn off again after a short time - including my wind and speed display - not very helpful when you're trying to tack (after finding yourself 'hove-to') or reef down under a very dark, overcast, night sky!
"Nereida" kept a reasonable course over much of the night but I decided it was about time I got the wind-steering gear (the German Windpilot) into action since I was going to be on this starboard tack for quite a time - and I could do with a bit of a rest from constantly jumping up into the cockpit & worrying about the course we were making.
So I brought 'Hermann' into action - actually a very simple thing to do but since I'd done it so very little over the last few years, I had a bit of a 'hang up' about it (should have done it yesterday but generator oil change took precedence).
I got us going nicely on course, locked off the wheel and set Hermann into action - with a few easily-made, minor adjustments we were trundling along nicely on course. The good news is that we are now able to make less westing (into that threatening, developing, High pressure area) since I can control our direction, unlike yesterday when I was forced to maintain a close reach. The wind has veered more so it was important for me to be able to keep us going no higher than SW. Steering by the wind means I need to keep an eye on the wind direction, but also means no battery power usage!
Looking at the weather info downloaded this morning, it seems I need to keep going SSW-SW for several more days before, hopefully, the wind goes gradually into the NE & then E to take me on a run to Hawaii. A N gale is forecast for the coast region & might reach out to affect me a bit tonight or tomorrow - good news if it brings good wind!!

pm
Well, the sun got out again, Hermann is keeping us on course beautifully and the seas have calmed down from last night - although the occasional big swell comes along, as you'd expect. I spent some time writing up my logs and emailing and had a good nap instead of looking at the autopilot wiring - tomorrow! When the latest weatherfaxes were downloaded, they made it clear that I must try to keep going due S, if possible, rather than get any further west, if I'm to avoid the 'no-wind' zone of high pressure - already today the pressure on my path rose to 1023, although it's now down to 1021. The wind is N, so it's difficult to go dead downwind - I may have to gybe onto port tack at some point if I see the wind dropping or the pressure rising again.
After our roll call, I had a good meal and then relaxed - the sky had cleared a lot and the stars were out - I saw all the familiar ones: Cassiopeia, the Plough, etc and was pleased to spot my favourite little constellation, Delphinus (the dolphin), close to Cygnus. The sea and air temperatures have risen to 17C and 18C, so it is definitely getting warmer gradually. I'm just south of Pt Conception (well over 300 mls off), so entering S. California in latitude.

Day 6 - A little belated - things got a bit fraught yesterday!!

Discovered around dawn that the autopilot wasn't working, nor the GPS (I'd recently wired a new GPS antenna into the autopilot course computer). Seems to me like a loose wire since sometimes GPS comes on (but autopilot never does)- will need to empty aft bunk area to get under & have a look - major job!.
Fortunately, the wind direction (SSW-WSW) was such that I could keep going close-hauled and "Nereida" normally steers herself beautifully upwind. Unusually, I had to help her by constantly hand-steering & then locking off the steering wheel because the biggish seas kept knocking her off otherwise. I had to dive up to the cockpit on a regular basis to check on things - found us 'hove to' several times! Our course wasn't quite what I had wanted (was going SE earlier when wind was SSW) - but by 2pm we were doing fine on a close reach - actually going S! Our speed was excellent - I even had to reef down twice as the night progressed because the winds (and seas) got up - to around 25kn apparent. I'm trying to keep in the good wind near-ish the coast (shown on weatherfaxes I download on Winlink), while remembering I'm trying to get to Hawaii, but also trying to avoid the high pressure wind 'hole' now forming W of me & beginning to affect the middle-back of the rest of the fleet. A balancing act!

Having to mess about with PCs didn't help matters over the day - trying to get backup Garmin handheld GPS's connected and talking to each of them (one PC normally lives in my aft cabin by the SSB for emails/wx , the other normally lives on the chart-table for charting (via Nobeltec) and AIS - but this one has been giving problems with the new mains charger suddenly deciding to stop charging so PC closes down unexpectedly & the new 12V charger no good either. So having to move comms PC from aft cabin to saloon on regular basis to do Nobeltec/AIS - a pain reconnecting all the leads each time, and had to load AIS software and charts onto 2nd PC via memory stick (CD drive not working!) - PCs are fine when all is going well but what a pain when they start misbehaving!
AIS has been so useful that I didn't want to be without it - and it needs GPS info as much as Nobeltec does. I could cope with paper charts OK but when the autopilot and GPS both went down simultaneously, and then the wind (I'm delighted to say!!!) got up so strongly over the evening and night - with no autopilot - I had my hands full trying to cope. (Not much by way of a meal yesterday!).
Just to add to everything else, when Lou on 'Seabird' mentioned generator problems, it occurred to me to check on the date of my last oil change as I went to check the oil level. (I'm relying on my little generator for charging my batteries, rather than the main engine.) To my horror, it was way overdue (and the oil level was low anyway) - so I had to change the oil immediately - the afternoon's job. So I was unable to get my usual afternoon catnap yesterday - hopefully I will manage it today - I feel quite tired.
Good news of the day (apart from a happy generator!) - actually saw blue skies and sun for about 2-3 hrs mid-afternoon - first time this trip!

Evening, Wed 28th June

Last night, just before 11pm, in pitch black darkness, I had a very worrying experience while drifting about in little wind, 113ml W of SF's Golden Gate. I spotted a ship, "SCF Ural", on the AIS window of my PC which was clearly heading south almost directly for me.
Thinking I'd better call him up immediately, in case he needed lots of time to turn (as tankers do, for instance), I tried to do just that. Took a time for him to respond on VHF16, with no response on VHF13. Then it took even longer to make it clear what the problem was - I must have given my coordinates six times at least (language was clearly a problem for the Russians on board) so that they could try to find me on their radar (I know I give a good signal on big ship radars at around 30mls and the sea was not rough). I ended up speaking to the Captain, who finally got the message - but only after I told him firmly he MUST TURN TO PORT IMMEDIATELY to avoid hitting me - a small sailboat nearly stationary in his path, drifting (for the moment) at under 1 kn to the west. By now, I was getting very concerned - even put the engine key in the ignition ready for the worst - but he eventually said he would change course to port - and I was able to see, shortly after that, that he had turned by 11 degrees (the AIS info one gets includes course steered, rotation, etc) which would put him several miles off my position. By then, a slightwind had got up, so I was able to sail, initially on starboard tack, at just 1.4 kn, until I realised that was taking me into his path so I then changed to port tack. Worryingly, he did not show up on my radar until he was 6-9 mls away - usually big ships show up at 24mls - and although he passed within 4 mls of me, I did not see any lights despite knowing precisely where he was from my AIS window...

The wind continued around F1-2 overnight, so not much progress was made - at the 9am rollcall, I'd made just 1 ml towards Hawaii since the previous evening!

Later this morning, I heard a noise and a big humpback surfaced several times close to 'Nereida' on his way north.

Often, the wind has picked up and we've made over 4 kn but then it would drop again. After carefully looking at the weatherfaxes I'd downloaded, I decided to turn south at 1pm today - saw barometric pressure was up to 1018, from 1014 at 0400, so concluded low pressure over SF may have dissipated earlier than expected, meaning I could safely head S now rather than waiting longer (no wind close offshore had been predicted while the low was present over SF). The wind then veered from SSW to WSW making for a better course. It's still not strong, but at least I'm having a very pleasant sail - in roughly the right direction!

Actually saw over 6kn of boatspeed later today and we're regularly seeing over 5kn - not too bad for being close-hauled and with variable light winds. The other good thing is that most of this afternoon, and on into the night, I've been on a constant starboard tack (no frequent tacking around) which is a lot more relaxing and meant I could catch up on some sleep in the cockpit. Also the sun came out for a few moments just to remind me it exists - but it's still cold enough for me to need to change into warmer trousers.

According to Don Anderson this evening, we're all in for a slow race because of the highly unusual weather pattern - the usual Pacific high is finally about to be re-established in its usual place - right in the path of a lot of the fleet - so they have to try to avoid ending up becalmed by heading SSW now as fast as they can - but they could well end up with a major problem. Equally, I can expect several more days of light winds but by going south from here for 5-6 days I should eventually find the wind increasing and 'clocking' - then I can head more & more west with the Trades to Kauai. We'll soon see over the next few days whether people have made the right choices of route & timing - it's a difficult call!

Jeanne
"Nereida"

5pm Tuesday 27th June

Oh well - another day of regular 0.0 kn Boatspeed and Wind displays & rocking & rolling going nowhere. And just to tease me, 2-10 minutes of nice wind three times over the day - just enough to get me all excited and trim the sails frantically thinking that at last I was getting out of my 'hole'!
Just had another mug of hot soup as I gazed out on the big swells coming across a smooth grey sea, surrounded and topped by white fog & cloud. The sails are flapping around again - every time I change things the whisper of wind swings around to the opposite direction & backs the sails - change again. Or take the genoa in and leave things alone for a bit, waiting for better wind - don't like to do that - feels too much like giving up! The swell increases the problem - I have the preventer on the main to stop it swinging & banging around in the swell - so that's another thing to change on each change of tack. My finger tips are quite smooth & shiny from all the rope handling! Not much chance to relax in these conditions - unlike when the winds are constant (at least in direction).
Have played a lot of music - especially Bob Marley: "Don't Worry About a Thing" (- 'cause every little thing's going to be all right) & "Don't Give Up the Fight" !!! Thought of singing first one to the fleet at rollcall (even got out my guitar to try out accompaniment) - but may pass on that! Good for dancing to (I've got a tiny dance floor on 'Nereida' between the galley & chart table!)
I'm still managing to keep to my WSW rhumbline course - weatherfaxes show winds offshore west of SF but nothing inshore tomorrow so getting west is vital just now. Then need to get south if possible as the expected high develops in its 'usual' place from late Wed to Thurs on. Maybe being here may turn into a good thing if it puts me just on the edge of the new High ie with a good gradient to give reasonable winds down to Hawaii. Have to stay optimistic!!
No more chats to the rest of the 'back pack' - they're too far ahead to be within VHF range.
The fog has closed in now to within 5-10 boatlengths. I try not to look at the COG when we're drifting like this - it usually shows me going NE at anything up to 1.3knots! AIS has been so useful - shows me boats nearby but also means I can use the radar much less, meaning a big saving in power consumption.
The good news today is that I finally figured out why my charger for the main PC has been so erratic - sometimes OK, frequently off - turns out the plug adapter was faulty (and rated at too few amps) - changed it for another and - hey presto! - 'nada mas problema' .
Just saw 4 knots of wind - must go & see if I can coax us into the right direction! Then it's time for a good meal before rollcall at 9pm.

Cheers,

Jeanne
"Nereida"
In the floppy Pacific, too close to SF & shore

There's a big 'hole' in the wind at present, close offshore all the way down from SF to Pt Conception, expected to last for 2-3 days more. High is right up near Vancouver & expected to be replaced by Low there with new High forming right on my rhumbline course from San Francisco to Kauai, Hawaii (where it should have been now!)
Seems to me I'm trapped in light airs for some time - can't move west fast enough to get to the good wind west of 127W now, and will then get caught out by being near centre of new High pressure because I won't be able to move S fast enough in 2-3 days time to avoid that.... And all because I was trapped in light airs inshore from day 1 of race.. Talk about frustrating...!! Anyone who went directly S has had an even worse time than my back half of the fleet have had, if that's possible! The one guy who did that has abandoned the race & returned to SF. Don Anderson ('Summer Passage', N6HG) spoke to the fleet tonight on SSB with update on wx info & consequent routeing - although what he said was pretty well what I had already deduced from my Winlink weatherfaxes.
I actually put up the spinnaker this morning (the sailmaker had had it out for measuring for my race rating & put it back slightly twisted) - but by the time I'd got all the lines lead correctly the wind had died away completely so it just flapped about - predictable!! The good thought of the day is that at least it's ready for next time. And it actually got a bit warmer for a good hour or so, although the sun never really got through the grey overcast - took off shoes & socks and fleece jackets (plural!) & sweatshirt (it's been cold & damp!!) and had a cold beer in hopeful expectation of some good sailing in warm weather...
I'm sitting here with a nice mug of hot soup in my hands... can't wait to get to the warmth of Hawaii. Glad I stocked up with Cup-a-Soups in London in January (although that was with Alaska in mind).
I'm getting sleep in fits and starts, over the day as well - trouble is that each time I get back up on deck, conditions have changed and heading/sails need adjusting - so inclination is to try to keep sails trimmed properly (trying to get out of this 'no-wind' zone) rather than get enough sleep! When conditions are more constant, sleep is easier to get. I'm hoping for NW winds very soon - wind has gone round to the north tonight and things look more hopeful. I'm presently making just 2.2 knots.
I talk often on the VHF to the others but saw no other boats or ships at all today. Just the sea - the NW swell seems to have increased but still only 4-5 ft (1.5m).
Jeanne
"Nereida"

What a frustrating time!!
Have spent all my time overnight and today tacking around as close-hauled as I can, trying to get west - no chance - options have been close to due S or to due N in the light wind - or NO wind, as it's been, a lot of the time. Impossible to keep the autopilot working with 0.0 boatspeed! Moved 2.1 mls through the water in the 5 hrs up to 6am, but tide carried me in towards shore (heard the breaking surf!) and towards Drakes Bay. Got 'embayed' and had a lot of trouble getting out past Pt Reyes - the long peninsula that sticks out south with an east-west upside down 'T' at its end - which effectively forms Drakes Bay to its east. Finally managed it around noon - but then I was forced to head even further north, rather than retrace my path south. The wind has swung around Pt Reyes and never reached more than 4-5 kn, except for a very short time, until near dusk. Then I suddenly felt breeze on my face - and it increased to give good boatspeed - what a nice change. Lasted for quite a time but eventually died away around 11pm. In the meantime, a strong tide continually took me northwest of Pt Reyes - seemed to me I was never going to escape that Point! A curious seal kept me company for quite a time as I drifted this afternoon.
There have been quite a few ships around. The new AIS program has been worth its weight in gold - seeing the boats and their names on the screen together with info such as size, speed, direction, destination, etc, has been really useful and an excellent safety feature. The skippers/crew are always courteous and keep a good lookout for me after I've called them to warn them if our paths look like crossing.
Soon after dawn this morning, as I was drifting in a flat, glassy sea, I saw humpback whales near the boat for a good half hour. They were just cruising around, coming to the surface regularly - three in all. There had already been porpoises and lots of penguin guillemots to attract my interest as I drifted with the current at zero boatspeed under the gloomy overcast. With constant efforts to keep the boat moving overnight, involving constant changing of tack as the genoa backed in the flukey wind, I got almost no sleep and what I had was disturbed by the VHF coming alive now & then to deal with the big ships heading in & out of San Francisco.
As usual, at 9 o'clock tonight, as this morning, we had a roll call of the race fleet on the SSB radio and then we chatted to each other. During the day, we keep watch on VHF69 and often call to each other to discuss problems or big ships/tugs passing close by or simply to vent our frustrated feelings at the lack of good wind. We'll see what tonight brings - but at least I'm moving - and in roughly the right direction!

Jeanne
"Nereida"

6pm Sat24Jun06

Lovely sunny start - but very little wind! I managed to drift over start line at back of fleet and then proceeded to tack slowly towards fogbound Golden Gate - wind came in fits and starts, but more close in to Peninsula Pt, off Belvedere.
Didn't want to get too far out into Bay because of foul strong flood tide - so took a long time getting no distance at all.
Several boats with photographers/wellwishers came by - lots of good wishes and friendly faces.
Slowly the breeze filled in again, and made excellent speed on approach to, and transit through, Golden Gate (6.5-7.3 kn) despite having had to reef right down (2 reefs in main and genoa).
Fog kindly decided to lift as got close to GG Bridge and stayed that way - so no problem there. Just as well, because my PC chargers aren't working, so it's back to paper charts and pencil+Breton plotter.
Has been difficult to decide what course to steer for best - SW wind now & light SW winds are forecast for next few days. High pressure area is way north of usual position (off Vancouver Island) - so having to try to get west over next few days, in hope of making southing later in passage.
Wind died right down as passed across the 'Potato Patch' (ebb tide + little wind + HW made that a safe option) so I'm now ambling along, headed NW at all of 3-4 kn max! Murky sky, long low swell, lots of penguin guillemots and the occasional group of dolphins.
Just offered a cup of tea to another racer as we got close! Two others in sight further out. All feels very relaxed, not like a race at all, quite unlike the excitement of the approach to the Golden Gate.

Just downloaded some weatherfaxes, so must go & do some 'HW' and then sort out food well before it gets dark - didn't get the chance to cook anything as I usually try to do before a long passage like this.

Jeanne
"Nereida"