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Sunday - Wednesday 28-31 May 2023

Had a stressful time on first approach to Anaho Bay, on NE of Nuku Hiva island, after having had a couple of 20 kt squalls earlier, and then forced to head back out to sea on seeing strong weather over Anaho Bay that I was about to enter to anchor - finally came in after squall had died down but had me very worried!

Lovely welcome on Sunday by couple of boats I know from La Cruz, Mexico - they dinghied over to welcome me and congratulate me on making landfall - a 25-day passage from Mexico. They also organised filling my water tank with lovely fresh drinking water - all very kind and helpful! So I had a lovely shower and did laundry! (No good drinking water here in Taiohae Bay from any taps).

Came around to Taiohae Bay Tuesday to clear in - eventually managed that today (Wednesday). Check in was easy - very friendly, helpful young woman gendarme.

So far, four (!) different sets of boaters have given me dinghy lifts inshore. Have yet to inflate dinghy and see if it and outboard are working OK - fingers crossed! (Job for tomorrow)

As well as instrument problems, confirmed this evening that the tricolour at mast top is not lighting up, although anchor light from same fitting is working fine - seems two wires of mast top fitting have perhaps become disconnected.

Last night was pizza night onshore with a group of boaters and I've had several visits to 'Nereida' over the day and evening from cruisers I last met in Mexico.

Solar input is not so very good - quite a few clouds, plus shading - but getting good wind generator input at times and genset is working fine to make up shortfall when needed.

Spent a lot of time today, emptying fuel from jerry cans into main fuel tank, ready for fetching diesel from onshore supply sometime soon to replace diesel used while on passage.

31st May 2023, Taiohae Bay, Nuku Hiva, FP

Wind died overnight Friday and into Saturday.... and again over Saturday into Sunday but came up again irregularly during the day from then for remainder of our voyage

0730Z / 10pm Saturday Marquesas time - wind dropped right down before sunset so we were making 4.5-5kt, which was fine, but then it dropped further, so eventually, overnight, motor was started to ensure arrival would be Sunday in daylight....

By early morning Sunday, motor was off with better wind - by mid-morning, we were sailing beautifully once more, at ~5.5kt with poled-out genoa.,

I was constantly checking the horizon for signs of land - waiting to shout "Land ahoy!!" to all onboard (!)

As we got close to Nuku Hiva, several rain squalls came by and the wind suddenly went up to over 22kt so I frantically furled in the genoa!

As we came even closer to the island, the wind started whistling. Just as I was about to enter Anoha Bay, we were headed by yet another strong squall that forced us back out to sea.

Eventually, the wind calmed down and I finally anchored in 40ft/12m, near to a beach with a drinking water tap I'd been told about. Cruisers near me dinghied over to congratulate me on my successful passage - we knew each other from La Cruz in Mexico - that was a lovely welcome to the Marquesas!

What a dramatic setting we're in! Towering volcanic heights above the anchorage and more spectacular sharp peaks in view further away.

It's a major public holiday this weekend, so Tuesday I'll make for the south of the island to clear in - all offices are closed over the long weekend.

Tomorrow, I shall enjoy swimming off the boat - and I'll see how much growth Nereida has accumulated over our passage from Mexico...

08 49'S 140 04'W

Friday 26th May 2023 Wonderful Tradewind sailing continues but in lighter wind and in lessening seas...

After a couple of fast, boisterous days, the wind died a bit and backed overnight, the seas lying down somewhat with them, so we're now sailing along at around 4,5-5 kt in ESE wind of about 10kt, with the genoa poled out once more - lovely, gentle sailing under a blue sky.

I'm finishing up the last of the fresh, crispy celery before having my main meal of the day - a very tasty leftover from last night of beef patty and onions with (almost!) freshly-under--cooked cauliflower and broccoli... Amazes me that the veg has stayed perfectly edible considering how badly my fridge has been behaving since just before leaving Mexico.

I'm hoping to top up my fresh water supply on making landfall, since the water-maker has also been out of action since Mexico - pity!

It's a major holiday weekend in French Polynesia (Whit Sunday weekend?) so clearing in will have to wait until Tuesday. That's good news since it means I'll enjoy a totally relaxed arrival - I'm looking forward to plenty of swimming in clear water in a pleasant, quiet, little bay somewhere, while I wait.

THe French navy are touring the area, it seems, but I've not personally been called on yet. I heard them calling a nearby boat last night on VHF16 and another boat a day ahead told me they were visited by a Navy helicopter yesterday.

At 2200Z (12:50pm Marquesas time), we're at 07 36S 136 10W which is 240 n.ml. from the waypoint near to my planned landfall. So our present speed of around 5.5 kt, if maintained, will mean arriving on Sunday around 9am local time, which sounds fine... If the wind picks up and I make better speed, I'll heave to well offshore for a time.

You can see all of my YouTube videos here.

Boisterous, fast, Trade wind sailing over Day 20, crossing the Pacific

Having finally got the pole hoisted for the genoa and in use heading downwind on Monday, the wind piped up and veered overnight - so I had to furl in the genoa and take it over to starboard - all in pitch darkness as we rolled around every time the good-sized waves hit us... which was often!

Tuesday continued with 'boisterous' sailing in strong winds and big seas all day long, but no squalls. We were frequently making 7-7.5 kt and surfing at well over 8-9 kt.

With the wind gusting up to 20kt as night fell, I reduced the genoa quite a bit more - we were swinging about rather wildly at times and I felt it best to avoid that overnight, even though it meant we slowed down a little - but not much, since I'm still seeing us making 6-7kt.

The Marquesas (or Iles Marquises, as they should more correctly be referred to) are now less than 600 miles away.... equating to 4-5days... and the wind is forecast to be good all the way.

Landfall is looking like possibly late Saturday to early Sunday, so I might have to heave-to well off, if we get too close nearing night time.

Our time zone is now Z-9 but we've been keeping to Banderas Bay time of Z-7 up to now - I need to adjust the ship's clock!

Present position is 05 32S, 130 12W and we should continue pretty much on our present rhumb line course of 247T all the way - see the Predictwind tracker page for Nereida (see the link on my website) for our track to here.

Day 19 - sailing beautifully in the Trades...

10am Just had my morning coffee - that coffee pot gets regular use!

Failed to get the pole up yesterday - will try again shortly, although it's not really needed just now - we're making ~5kt on a heading that's nicely in the right direction - always good!

Weather is good - a few clouds around in sunny sky, a myriad of stars at night.... A bit rolly but not too bad - except when trying to manoeuvre a pole on the foredeck!!

All very pleasant just now.

It's looking like a weekend landfall (late Saturday?) and I'm hearing it's a holiday weekend - perfect for sneaking in to a small anchorage somewhere since shan't be able to clear in until Tuesday, when offices open again!

Midday - YAY!!!! Finally got the pole up after a lot of effort, both this morning and yesterday - thought I'd never manage it .... But "Where there's a will, there's a way!" So very true....!

So we're now heading on 240T towards the Marquesas in just under 10kt wind from just N of E. We're making around 5.6 kt under a blue sky with a few scattered white clouds and slightly reduced swell - very pleasant sailing conditions!

I'm about to celebrate with a coffee and some chocolate following on after a nice lunch....

Thursday 18th May 2023 - across the Equator....

11pm Just adjusted our course to head directly towards the Marquesas on 238T, now that we're crossed the Equator and negotiated the ITCZ - or most of it.... Sat in the cockpit to enjoy a partly clear sky - bright stars and the Southern Cross quite high and clear to see.

We had a 20kt squall this morning soon after I'd finished trying to decide how best to cope with a failed first reef - the knot at the tack/luff cringle had failed and the remainder of the line inside the boom ended up jammed ,so I could not take up on it to hold the first reef point down near the boom end...

In light wind and forced to fly a double-reefed mainsail, we're not making as much speed as we should - but we are heading in the right direction now!

I'll try to organise a first reef system outside the boom tomorrow. This evening was spent celebrating our Equator crossing - our eleventh single-handing in Nereida!

Don't forget to check out my frequently updated YouTube videos - youtube.com/@jeannesailingsolo

On Friday, with a change of course needed to avoid the often squally, nasty conditions being shown further S in the ITCZ, the pole holding out the genoa upwind on the starboard side was no longer needed so it had to be lowered and stowed. On the rolling foredeck in quite a good- sized swell, that took quite a time, as did the sail-handling while gybing from starboard to port tack so as to turn to the S.
But finally, we were sailing along nicely in good wind, making a good speed, although still rolling around often in the fair-sized NE swell.

Overnight, I had spotted the merchant vessel Kilo Moana looking to get rather close but she wasn't replying to my calls on VHF16 . Eventually I saw that they had changed course to go well astern of us - something I normally have to ask the big ships to do to avoid problems with them cutting close ahead of us 888. Hoping they heard me, I thanked them over the radio for doing that - nice to see such good seamanship and welcome courtesy, as a vessel under power crossing paths with a sailing vessel!

I finally located the leads I needed in order to use a back up mic, with my older well-used one having given up the ghost .... so I'm happily back on air and using the radio again, now!

Squid and flying fish continue to land on deck overnight.

I've tried troubleshooting the misbehaving instruments' problem - but to no avail. Fortunately, it's not critical, more of an inconvenience. As we head closer to the ITCZ, with its frequent squalls, possible lightning, heavy downpours and/or calms, I changed course a couple of times, hoping to avoid the worst of the weather ahead - it would be nice if we could dodge the bullet!
So far, it's been more very enjoyable downwind sunny Tradewind sailing, only occasionally rather rolly in bigger swell. 

Our position at 0100Z  on 14 May 2023 (late Saturday 13 May, local time) was:  08 34'N  119 29'W, making just under 6kt and heading just E of due S

See more at   youtube.com/@jeannesailingsolo>

Tracking page:   https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/SVNereida/

-- 
www.svnereida.com   ​ 

Woken by loud beeping just before dawn - chart table instruments down - so AP was displaying 'no pilot' - damn!! - but then found cockpit instruments were all fine - including AP, speed, wind, depth and plotter showing it all....   So all good   :-)   Just don't have the info down below.

Need to search for missing cable for the good back up mic/headset ....  so annoying that it's missing.....!   Will try covering damaged old mic cable in case that helps it to work.  Missing my radio chats!

Having a lovely sail now - on a beam reach, full canvas in 12-13kt ENE wind (stronger overnight but kept full sail) - regular NE 2m swell still rolls us about a bit, but not bad - nothing too violent.  Sky around midday almost clear -just a few scattered tiny cumulus.

Found machine screw near starboard scupper- from broken furler line lead I found two days ago while on foredeck, lowering the pole to stow it before gybing around.  Was accompanied by a squid - a few landed on board last two days, not many and not seen soon enough (or big enough) to enjoy some calamari tonight!

www.svnereida.com   ​

After leaving Clarion Island yesterday evening, as the sun was setting, it was good to know that not only was the genoa now fully in possession of two sheets, but the solar panels were a lot cleaner than since the boobies had begun roosting on board in significant numbers, the pole was raised to starboard, ready for use today, and the Hydrovane was ready also.

Today was a good day of quite fast (often 6.5-7kt or more) sailing in increased swell giving a lot of rolling while wing on wing - or 'goose-winged' as we Brits normally say!

I celebrated my success at Clarion Island tonight with freshly-made ratatouille (need to use up fresh produce before it goes off), accompanied by a nice steak and a small glass of red wine. Very enjoyable!

Position at 0115Z on 10th May (i.e. 1725 PST on 9th May) was 16 43N 116 34W,speed (SOG) 6.4kt, course (COG) 228T, wind 13kt from NE, swell 2.5m from NNE

Sunday 7th May 2023

I've been pleased to see how well we're sailing, despite the big genoa being out of action until we get to anchor off Clarion Island where I'm hoping to deal with the broken genoa sheet that occurred so suddenly and noisily late last night - just before dawn.

I've now managed to get GPS input to the plotter down below at the chart table - a simple matter of firing up the cockpit plotter, just as I was hoping, since they are connected. Good to find that problem was so easily resolved although I still have no idea why the original loss of GPS info happened in the plotter down below. A new job to add to the boat job list, to be dealt with who knows where.....

We still have one determined booby roosting on board - I thought we'd lost them all but this one clearly enjoys being on board Nereida too much - so my cleaning up of the mess they've all left is still on hold.

I just chatted over VHF to Anne (& Ken) on Naida who were, in turn, chatting to Shane on 'Chloe' - also on his way, with his boat cat, to the Marquesas, as we are. I'm in contact with Naida on SSB each morning at 9am LT (1400Z) on 8297 - anyone wishing to join us is welcome!

I'm expecting to arrive in the protected south bay on Isla Clarion around first light tomorrow morning - I'm looking forward to that - I never expected to visit that island!

Beautiful sailing in bright sun just now in 15kt N wind, making 5.6 kt on a course of 280T.

Position at 3pm local time (2100UTC) is: 18 08.4' N, 113 30.4' W; distance to Clarion: 70 n.ml.

See my YouTube channel for my videos (being posted often, for as long as I can - at anytime, that might stop!)

Go to www.youtube.com/@jeannesailingsolo to see my videos. (If you subscribe, you'll be notified whenever I post a new one.)

A brief resume here.... The pandemic kept Jeanne in Australia from mid-February 2020 until March 2022 a total of 25 months!

From the end of August 2020, Jeanne stayed in Cairns, Far North Queensland, with the benefit of virtually no Covid in the region and able to live a 'normal' life unlike most of the rest of the world. She felt very blessed to have happened to have arrived there when she had, in a lovely tropical setting and within reach of spectacular scenery and among friendly people.

The only downside was being unable to take care of her boat Nereida awaiting her return to Victoria Harbour, British Columbia, Canada, where she had been docked since the completion, in September 2019, of her second sail around the world solo, nonstop and unassisted.

Jeanne was able to travel Queensland extensively during her stay there, despite the pandemic, with several visits to the region west and north of Brisbane as well as to the city itself and travel along the coast both south to NSW and north to Cairns, as well as up to Cape York from Thursday and Horn Islands in the Torres Strait.

When eventually it became possible for her to fly out of Australia back to Canada early in 2022, she took the opportunity to explore Queensland and NSW further inland on her way, by camper van, from Cairns to Sydney, but made sure to travel the coast as well as she neared Sydney the furthest East Cape of Australia and its lighthouse, at Byron Bay, and coastal points south of there were not to be missed by this sailor!

Jeanne finally landed back in British Columbia to arrive back on board her beloved Nereida mid-March in 2022. She then started on the long task of seeing to all the many repairs and upgrades needed as a result of Nereida, since her launch in April 2009, having circumnavigated the world three-and-a-half times (nonstop around twice), having sailed around Cape Horn three times, with a lot of damage resulting from the frequent rough conditions and lengthy times at sea, often in the Southern Ocean.

Since then, for over a year, Jeanne has been solidly working hard at repairing Nereida, devoting a lot of time, care and effort to restore her boat to tip-top shape. She wanted to make Nereida thoroughly seaworthy again, in the expectation of her next long ocean voyage , in 2023 across the Pacific from Mexico and eventually to New Zealand and then Australia, exploring everywhere on her way.

*****************************************************
While sailing around the world, I'm trying to raise funds to help support the superb life-saving work done by the RNLI (Lifeboats) in Britain each and every day of the year, regardless how bad the weather. In fact, the worse it is, the more likely they are out there, helping someone in distress - whether a swimmer, surfer, small boat or big ship, night or day, summer or winter, and it is a charity - no government funding - so they rely on our help to fund their intensive training and maintain their equipment.

It would be great if you would take a moment to click on the Lifeboats link here (https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/Jeanne-Socrates2), if you'd like to show your support for my efforts at sailing solo, nonstop, unassisted around the globe, trying to set a World Record as the oldest person to do so, by donating something towards the great work the RNLI do every day. If a lot of people put in even a small amount, it all adds up... Thanks a lot! If you can help, it will be very much appreciated. Let's see if we can reach my target!

(I hear that some readers might need to talk to their bank BEFORE trying to make a donation to the RNLI since many US banks routinely block foreign transactions unless they are notified in advance.)
***************************************************

1900GMT = midday PDT (Pacific Daylight Time) - end of Day 339. We made 79 n.ml. DMG, measured in a straight line between the two 1900GMT positions.

Total distance covered from Victoria, B.C., to end of Day 339 (by daily DMGs): 27,911 n.ml.

My website (www.svnereida.com) has several tracking/position options - go to the 'Travels' tab for links. Also, the www.QRZ.com page for my ham callsign VE0JS has a Google Earth map showing my track.
Now that we're close to the coast, www.marinetraffic.com will show Nereida's position - very frequently updated - useful once in the Strait of Juan de Fuca and getting close to finishing.
See my website for updated ETA info (top of any page)
***************************

Thursday 7pm A beautiful, sunny, peaceful, calm afternoon, with both Vancouver Island's mountains and those of Washington state clearly visible: Canada to NE and USA to SE. (Almost a repeat of yesterday's entry!)
A humpback surfaces in the distance - its tail flukes lifted for me to see...
Wind well down- Superwind (wind generator) blades haven't turned for a long time, showing that any slight wind has been less than 6-7kt all day - but it's now from W-NW and has just increased slightly - instead of a glassy calm surface, there are now tiny ripples...
Just before dawn, the ebb tide will be lessening in the Strait entrance, which is 19 miles away, and will be 1 kt or less from ~5am on. The tide will then change to a helpful, but not very strong, flood for five hours from 6:30am to 1pm, roughly. The wind in the Strait is supposed to be from W and becoming 10-15kt from midday to midnight.

8pm Decided to get underway early, even though only at a crawl in the nearly non-existent wind. Worried that if I don't move now, we'll not beat the ebb tide when it gets strong around midnight and we'll not make it down the Strait again - as last time

Still a total of 80 miles to go and if we can keep up an average of 4-5kt from midnight on, we'd get to Victoria around 4pm - 8pm tomorrow, Friday ... We'll see how that works out - sounds too good to be true

Midnight Lovely starry sky but not much wind still - sails not filling very much. Coming up to maximum ebb in two hours' time and SOG now is around 1 kt. Heading is just S of due E as we pass into the middle of the shipping separation scheme, well before the Strait entrance.
No moon seen now - it was half-moon earlier with a bright planet hanging just to its SW. Sound of throbbing engines is coming faintly over the water from ships a distance off.

4:30am Wind died, fog came down and ebb increased, so I've spent last few hours calling oncoming ships to make sure they avoid us as we drift with the tidal current,
mainly E-ENE, which took us over the edge of, and just into, the W-bound traffic lane - not a good place to be. Prince Rupert Traffic controller has been helpful, as usual, and as the tide changed to flood, it finally became easier to head on our preferred course of ESE, rather than struggle to keep going in any direction except backwards while trying to keep out of the traffic lanes.

6am Day breaking now - good to see something, despite the fog... Can see about one boat length away and everything is dripping wet. Back into fleeces and a warm hat! Finally able to keep a good course, although still little wind so only making just over 1kt in a W wind.. water surface very smooth-looking. A tug and tow was avoided and another cruise ship 'Norwegian Joy' headed E to unload her passengers - come down from Alaska, no doubt.

7am Beginning to pick up some speed with the flood tide picking up - maximum is in two hours' time, then two hours more before slack water when the tide turns and the ebb starts up again. The worry then is not having enough wind to make way against the strength of the ebb tide. There's still very little wind now but at least the later ebb tide is a lot less strong than the earlier one.

7:45am Fog has lifted - but not the flag (ensign) which is drooping on its flagstaff at the stern. Seaducks are calling again through the otherwise silent air. It's grey and murky ... and very damp... and our speed hasn't got above 2kt still. Kept hearing a whale blowing and then finally caught a glimpse of its back - another humpback. A pair of sea-lions came by, inquisitively.
Time for breakfast - last of my eked-out cereal....and last of my fruit juice.... I made some fresh coffee.

10:45am Passing Duncan Rock, 1.8ml to S. Wind got up nicely over half an hour ago - we were making over 4kt at times - but now it has died right down again - think we might be in lee of Cape Flattery, 3.4ml to S, since wind is from S quadrant. Just went goose-winged with staysail to starboard, and changed course a bit to keep more in middle of the Strait, hoping to get more wind. Only 40 minutes of flood tide left, then the ebb - but might have just enough wind giving enough boat speed to keep going E as ebb increases... Fingers crossed. Making 2-3kt now.

11:40am Passed into Seattle Traffic area of responsibility in the Strait. Sun beginning to shine. Wind still rather light so we've slowed right down again... Had hoped we'd keep up our good speed for rest of today....
Having a nice, warming mug of soup - it's chilly!

ETA: Looking like early Saturday morning, since clearly won't make Victoria in daylight today - still nearly 60ml to go which would take 12 hours if we averaged 5kt - and we haven't once made that speed yet today.... Need some decent, consistent wind to give good speed. (The weather gods seem to have decided to send their usual light winds into the Strait where we are now, to slow us down...)

DTF: Victoria Hbr (Ogden Pt breakwater): 55 n.ml. (normally less than a half-day away!)

*****************************************************
While sailing around the world, I'm trying to raise funds to help support the superb life-saving work done by the RNLI (Lifeboats) in Britain each and every day of the year, regardless how bad the weather. In fact, the worse it is, the more likely they are out there, helping someone in distress - whether a swimmer, surfer, small boat or big ship, night or day, summer or winter, and it is a charity - no government funding - so they rely on our help to fund their intensive training and maintain their equipment.

It would be great if you would take a moment to click on the Lifeboats link here (https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/Jeanne-Socrates2), if you'd like to show your support for my efforts at sailing solo, nonstop, unassisted around the globe, trying to set a World Record as the oldest person to do so, by donating something towards the great work the RNLI do every day. If a lot of people put in even a small amount, it all adds up... Thanks a lot! If you can help, it will be very much appreciated. Let's see if we can reach my target!

(I hear that some readers might need to talk to their bank BEFORE trying to make a donation to the RNLI since many US banks routinely block foreign transactions unless
they are notified in advance.)
***************************************************

1900GMT = midday PDT (Pacific Daylight Time) - end of Day 338. We made 22 n.ml. DMG, measured in a straight line between the two 1900GMT positions. A lot of drifting, hove-to, waiting for wind, after unsuccessful attempt to get into Strait towards Victoria over Wednesday night.

Total distance covered from Victoria, B.C., to end of Day 338 (by daily DMGs): 27,832 n.ml.

Cape Flattery (~60n.ml. from Victoria Hbr entrance): 5 n.ml to SSW

Position, as posted to www.Winlink.org and www.Shiptrak.org (go to either of those websites with my US radio callsign, KC2IOV, to see my track over this entire voyage):
TIME: 2019/09/06 19:00GMT LATITUDE: 48-27.01N LONGITUDE: 124-38.05W
COURSE: 097T SPEED: 3.0kt
WIND_SPEED: 10kt WIND_DIR: W SWELL_DIR: W SWELL_HT: 2.0m CLOUDS: 35%
BARO: 1017.4hPa TREND: 2 AIR_TEMP: 18.0C SEA_TEMP: 14.0C
COMMENT: Passed C.Flattery, near Neah Bay. Early fog. Wind was up but now down

My website (www.svnereida.com) has several tracking/position options - go to the 'Travels' tab for links. Also, the www.QRZ.com page for my ham callsign VE0JS has a Google Earth map showing my track.
Now that we're close to the coast, www.marinetraffic.com will show Nereida's position - very frequently updated - useful once in the Strait of Juan de Fuca and getting close to finishing.

See my website for updated ETA info (top of any page)
***************************

Wednesday 4:30pm A beautiful, sunny, peaceful, calm day, with both Vancouver Island's mountains and those of Washington state clearly visible: Canada to port and USA to starboard.
Wind well down- Superwind (wind generator) blades haven't turned for a long time, showing that the wind is less than 6-7kt - and it's coming from astern, so we're running downwind which makes the apparent wind even less, so our speed is that much less also.
The flood tide is just about to start in the Strait entrance which is still 8 miles away. That should help our speed for about four hours - until after 8pm tonight, when the tide will have changed to against us (ebb tide) and will be slowing us down.
Having one of my few remaining cereal bars with a coffee. Breakfast cereal this morning was late and there's not much of it left! One tiny portion has been kept for tomorrow mlrning - but I could still be trying to get in on Friday morning if the wind dies down again tonight...
Still 70 miles to go and unless we can keep up an average of 3kt, we shan't get to Victoria before 4pm tomorrow - Thursday ... Very much touch and go...

We had some noisy visitors earlier - a large group of sea-lions were nearby, playing around Nereida for quite a time - one boarded us at least twice! As I went to see what was happening, he looked up at me dolefully before slipping back into the water... I was relieved he didn't try to get up on board any further - he was clearly enjoying his rest on our bottom step.

A lot of big ships to keep clear of, especially in the early morning, but Prince Rupert Traffic kept telling them of our slow-going presence while we crossed the shipping lanes before entering the Strait.

The pole is hoisted for the staysail, to try to help our speed a little - goose-winged for dead downwind.

6:30pm It's beautifully peaceful and calm still, as we sail along gently under a blue sky. The sun is getting fairly low but is still bright and there are far fewer ships around just now to worry about.
Having a mug of tea with the last but one brownie and two of my few remaining shortbread biscuits, as I relax in the cockpit and enjoy the scene. A group of black seaducks, each with a distinctive white patch, rest on the water close by.
We're going a bit too slowly, unfortunately - seeing only 2.5-2.9kt instead of the 3kt or more that would make a Thursday daytime landfall more likely.

8:45pm Called by Pr. Rupert Traffic - S.S.Legacy approaching, also keeping S of traffic lanes, as we are. We arranged to pass port-to-port and changed course accordingly. S.S. Legacy offered to change course slightly to give more room between us - very pleasant and helpful!! SOG just over 3kt now but expect we'll slow down as ebb increases.

9:20pm Dark... Bright crescent moon over Cape Flattery - its light reflecting in the water, passing high mass of the Cape on our starboard beam, the string of lights of Neah Bay off to starboard ahead... Peaceful, quiet, gliding smoothly through the water... Occasional sound of a sea-lion exhaling - sleeping on the surface? SOG down to just over 1kt.... Seawater temperature has dropped a lot - now only 14.8C/59F.
Moved into Seattle Traffic's area of responsibility in the Strait - monitoring VHF Ch.05 now, instead of Prince Rupert Traffic's Ch 74.

10:30pm SOG down to around 0.5kt - we're making way through water fairly well but ebb tide is effectively slowing us right down so we're hardly making any real progress over the ground.
Having a nice ready-made meal of 'smoky chicken and chorizo' - managed to heat it up by placing its pouch into water brought slowly to the boil.

11pm We're going backwards - having a major problem with the ebb tide - it's stronger than our boat speed with almost no wind - so it's carrying us with it. Heading as we were, SE, we ended up being taken just S of due W - basically getting closer to rocks off the shore near Neah Bay.

In order to keep away from shore, I had to gybe around and head almost NNE, resulting in being taken NW by the tide - a safe direction, although it meant we were into slightly stronger tide and were also crossing the shipping lanes - fortunately, at this time of night, with very little traffic. Means we're being taken further from Victoria - but we're staying safe for the time being, in the middle of the Strait.

I'm wondering if I'm going to be forced back out to sea, to wait for a stronger wind to get down the Strait and to Victoria in safety. It's a pity the ebb tide is so much stronger than the flood tide which would help us to sail E - the direction we want to go in. The tide is still increasing in strength with maximum ebb, nearly 2kt, being around 1a.m.

Thursday 12:15am PDT (Thurs 0715 GMT) The nightmare continues ...! Ironically, I had a call from BBC Radio Solent, to join Juliaan Clegg's Breakfast Show in the UK. I was able to share my present scenario - and also to point out that, in fact, I'd now crossed my outbound path around the world - so I've 'closed the loop' and effectively completed my nonstop sail around the globe... but I still need to get back to Victoria and that's posing the present problem/challenge caused by the strong tide and present lack of wind in the Strait of Juan de Fuca.
We're now making a SOG of well over 2kt, sometimes 3kt, heading W-NW - but it's all due to tide and none due to wind - since there is none!

2:30am Now beyond the yellow light marking the 'bend' in the TSS at the entrance to the Strait. We've been taken 7.7ml by the ebb tide since soon after 10pm - back out of the Strait, just past Cape Flattery, avoiding quite a few ships on the way.

7am Just enjoyed a beautiful dawn over Vancouver Island and excited to see a humpback whale cruise by - dorsal fin shape was quite different from the whale seen the other day. Prince Rupert Traffic were excellent in helping me to stay safe while drifting with the current in no wind among the many ships heading in and out of the Strait overnight and now - many thanks to them for that. We were effectively becalmed but managed to stay in the middle of the shipping lanes, out of harm's way, for a large proportion of the time overnight.

11:30am 'Celebrity Solstice' passes by, 1/2 mile off, on her way back from a cruise to Alaska. We've just reached the end of the shipping lanes outside the Strait entrance, there's a touch of SW wind and we're heading NW at around 3kt, to get a bit further away before heaving to, to await better winds to allow us to reach Victoria.
Vancouver Island and Washington's Olympic mountains are in good view.

ETA: Friday afternoon, maybe?? Have to wait now for better wind to try again. If good W-NW wind Friday, that would be helpful and that might happen, according to forecasts, but light winds or E winds are of no use for getting E against strong ebb tides. (The weather gods seem to have decided to send their usual light winds into the Strait to slow us down...)

DTF: Victoria Hbr (Ogden Pt breakwater): 79 n.ml.; Cape Flattery (~60n.ml. from Victoria Hbr entrance): 19 n.ml to ESE

*****************************************************
While sailing around the world, I'm trying to raise funds to help support the superb life-saving work done by the RNLI (Lifeboats) in Britain each and every day of the year, regardless how bad the weather. In fact, the worse it is, the more likely they are out there, helping someone in distress - whether a swimmer, surfer, small boat or big ship, night or day, summer or winter, and it is a charity - no government funding - so they rely on our help to fund their intensive training and maintain their equipment.

It would be great if you would take a moment to click on the Lifeboats link here (https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/Jeanne-Socrates2), if you'd like to show your support for my efforts at sailing solo, nonstop, unassisted around the globe, trying to set a World Record as the oldest person to do so, by donating something towards the great work the RNLI do every day. If a lot of people put in even a small amount, it all adds up... Thanks a lot! If you can help, it will be very much appreciated. Let's see if we can reach my target!

(I hear that some readers might need to talk to their bank BEFORE trying to make a donation to the RNLI since many US banks routinely block foreign transactions unless
they are notified in advance.)
***************************************************

1900GMT = midday PDT (Pacific Daylight Time) - end of Day 337. We made just 3.4 n.ml. DMG, measured in a straight line between the two 1900GMT positions. Into Strait near Neah Bay and back out again overnight with ebb....!!

Total distance covered from Victoria, B.C., to end of Day 337 (by daily DMGs): 27,810 n.ml.

Position, as posted to www.Winlink.org and www.Shiptrak.org (go to either of those websites with my US radio callsign, KC2IOV, to see my track over this entire voyage):
TIME: 2019/09/05 19:00GMT LATITUDE: 48-31.94N LONGITUDE: 125-09.81W
COURSE: 078T SPEED: 0.4kt
WIND_SPEED: 4kt WIND_DIR: NW SWELL_DIR: NW SWELL_HT: 1.5m CLOUDS: 70%
BARO: 1014.7hPa TREND: 0 AIR_TEMP: 19.0C SEA_TEMP: 17.0C
COMMENT: Back out of Juan de Fuca Strait, drifting, hove-to, waiting for good wind.

My website (www.svnereida.com) has several tracking/position options - go to the 'Travels' tab for links. Also, the www.QRZ.com page for my ham callsign VE0JS has a Google Earth map showing my track.
Now that we're close to the coast, www.marinetraffic.com will show Nereida's position - very frequently updated - useful once in the Strait of Juan de Fuca and getting close to finishing.
***************************

Tuesday 4pm PDT (Tues 2300 GMT) "Overcast sky and seas well down, with wind very light still" - apart from changing the "winds very light" to "wind almost non-existent", that entry from yesterday can be repeated!
SOG is around 1-1.5kt, sea is becoming glassy smooth and it's becoming very peaceful with no noise from any wind.
Sea temperature has dropped to under 20C - presently 18.0C/64F - but air temperature has held at around 21C - so chance of fog has suddenly increased.
It's quiet enough now to listen for the tuner to make a 'clunking' noise as I turn on the HF/SSB radio - heard that noise clearly, confirming that the tuner is getting power OK - good news!
Spending a lot of time on weather, emails and chatting to friends, discussing possibility/timing of landfall.
So calm now, think I'll try looking at the backstay connection....

8:45pm Almost dark and still no wind - drifting SE at under 1kt. .. sails doing nothing.
Removed the backstay antenna connection and re-made it - but noticed the wire is very dull inside - film of corrosion covering outside of all the fine strands of the wire. Tried cutting it back but the copper strands were still dull and green - likely to be like that all the way down to the other end. Cleaned up the exposed strands, cleaned and sanded the backstay and reconnected it anyway, hoping for the best - but radio still not transmitting. Seems to me that entire wire needs replacing.
Used a sturdy crate to stand on for the extra height I needed - still not quite high enough for easy access but at least I could reach well enough to do the job as a temporary 'fix', holding on to the reefing lines near the boom end and/or to the backstay for support as I worked. In the calm conditions during the early afternoon, that worked fine, although the W swell increased somewhat as the afternoon wore on. Dull day with slight misty rain.
Had a curious visitor at one point - a sea-lion came to see what I was doing - didn't stay long once it was clear there were no fish on offer!

11:45pm Feels cold tonight. Sea temp is down to 17C/63F and cabin now under 20C/68F. Heading is variable in light wind but roughly E at 1-2kt.

11am Bright sunshine and almost no cloud. Vancouver Island and Cape Flattery/Washington in clear view to N and SE - a lovely day but a pity there's so little wind..... Getting close to entrance to Strait of Juan de Fuca. If we're lucky, we might get in tomorrow - certainly no chance today.
Difficult to do anything but keep an eye on the shipping - lots of it around to keep clear of - including an Australian warship (home port Sydney, they said) exiting the Strait! Think they'll get back to Australian waters rather more quickly than it took me to get here!
Looking like fog ahead in the Strait...

Think I'll be lucky to get any sleep from now until landfall - too much to keep an eye on.

ETA: Thursday...? (Maybe Friday...?) Wind is very light so we'll be creeping along towards Victoria Hbr over today and tonight...and tomorrow... (The weather gods seem to have decided to send their usual light winds into the Strait to slow us down...)

DTF: Victoria Hbr (Ogden Pt breakwater): 80 n.ml.; Cape Flattery (~60n.ml. from Victoria Hbr entrance): 20 n.ml to ESE

*****************************************************
While sailing around the world, I'm trying to raise funds to help support the superb life-saving work done by the RNLI (Lifeboats) in Britain each and every day of the year, regardless how bad the weather. In fact, the worse it is, the more likely they are out there, helping someone in distress - whether a swimmer, surfer, small boat or big ship, night or day, summer or winter, and it is a charity - no government funding - so they rely on our help to fund their intensive training and maintain their equipment.

It would be great if you would take a moment to click on the Lifeboats link here (https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/Jeanne-Socrates2), if you'd like to show your support for my efforts at sailing solo, nonstop, unassisted around the globe, trying to set a World Record as the oldest person to do so, by donating something towards the great work the RNLI do every day. If a lot of people put in even a small amount, it all adds up... Thanks a lot! If you can help, it will be very much appreciated. Let's see if we can reach my target!

(I hear that some readers might need to talk to their bank BEFORE trying to make a donation to the RNLI since many US banks routinely block foreign transactions unless
they are notified in advance.)
***************************************************

1900GMT = midday PDT (Pacific Daylight Time) - end of Day 336. We made 36 n.ml. DMG, measured in a straight line between the two 1900GMT positions. Very light wind all day and night... mostly just drifting, becalmed much of the time ...

Total distance covered from Victoria, B.C., to end of Day 336 (by daily DMGs): 27,807 n.ml.

Position, as posted to www.Winlink.org and www.Shiptrak.org (go to either of those websites with my US radio callsign, KC2IOV, to see my track over this entire voyage):
TIME: 2019/09/04 19:00GMT LATITUDE: 48-28.98N LONGITUDE: 125-12.31W
COURSE: 090T SPEED: 2.0kt
WIND_SPEED: 6kt WIND_DIR: WNW SWELL_DIR: W SWELL_HT: 1.5m CLOUDS: 5%
BARO: 1018.2hPa TREND: 0 AIR_TEMP: 20.0C SEA_TEMP: 16.0C
COMMENT: Slow going today in v.light wind. Sunny. Fog ahead.

My website (www.svnereida.com) has several tracking/position options - go to the Home page or 'Travels' tab for links. Also, the www.QRZ.com page for my ham radio callsign VE0JS has a Google Earth map showing my track.
Now that we're close to the coast, www.marinetraffic.com will also be showing Nereida's position - very frequently updated - useful once in the Strait of Juan de Fuca and getting close to finishing.
***************************

Monday 3pm PDT (Mon 2200 GMT) Overcast sky and seas well down with wind very light still - only ~10kt or so, making for SOG (speed) of only 3-4kt - but that will be enough to make landfall in daylight Wednesday, so long as the wind keeps up.
Finishing my breakfast coffee after finally posting daily reports and checking weather and emails - posting photos with report always adds to time needed.
Looked around on deck earlier and saw the staysail furling line in a complete mess - clearly had not been tensioned enough when unfurled (have had the problem for a long time, due to a broken plastic part). Will furl it in and later unfurl it again, to deal with the line so it winds onto the drum correctly - otherwise, on making landfall, it will be difficult to stow the staysail easily. In present light winds, should be easy for me to deal with.

5pm Whale surfaced several times very close to us - quite a large one! Seemed to cruise along near our port side for a time and finally dropped back and stayed astern. Looked like the same type of whale as seen a week or so ago, all smooth, very dark grey/black, no barnacles seen, with a small recurved dorsal fin - either a Minke or a Fin whale?? About the size of Nereida. (Fin shape made Humpback seem unlikely.)

6pm Finished sorting out the mess in the staysail furling line. Now it can be furled in any time without a problem..
Feeling decidedly chilly now - still a grey, totally overcast sky - no hint of sunshine today.
Have been thinking about the backstay antenna feed-line, now that the radio is not transmitting, and discussed the problem with Jim, WB2REM. Either replace present wire completely with another wire or clean the present connection. If only I had a spare halyard, I could raise a ire as replacement, temporary antenna on that - but all halyards are in use, replacing other lines. That's my thinking. Problem is height - but with no solar panels in place on the stern steelwork, I reckon I might be able to access the backstay connection with a small amount of climbing and tying myself in... It's a tempting thought! Working on the possibilities - must stay safe.
Light beginning to go - time to get some food going - soup and a hot meal - too cold for a cold meal today. Cabin temp is 21.2C and sea temp is 20.9C - almost the same, so hopefully, there'll be no fog tonight.
Wind still light, maybe 12kt or so, and boat making 5kt now. Cape Flattery is 110 miles off. If we could keep going at present speed we'd make Victoria around midnight Tuesday, but I expect us to be rather slower making a Wed daytime arrival looking good just now.

Tuesday 4:30am PDT (Tues 1130 GMT) Wind has died overnight - had to gybe around and get back on course, after easing the mainsheet a lot more, taking up on the preventer and bringing the staysail over to port to go goose-winged. Making 3kt now in WNW wind of not very much. Dark night with very moist air.

Noticing a lot more shipping as we get closer to the Strait of Juan de Fuca - busy with big cargo vessels, mostly heading to or from Vancouver, with some to/from Seattle and Victoria.

Settled on course better now - pretty well dead downwind - not an easy point of sail, especially in light winds. Hope to get some more sleep before well into the busy traffic. Contacted Prince Rupert Radio on VHF 16/74 earlier, to make sure they were aware of us - single-handing and with no engine, only sail... Wind is expected to stay light - hope not too light and we maintain steerage.

6am Almost no wind - wind generator not moving... Still goose-winged, headed downwind, but only making 2.5kt, although roughly on course... Not getting very far just now!

9:30am Gybed the sails - light rain, grey, cloudy sky, wind has veered to SW... Not very much wind but enough for us to make 3.3kt in the right direction.
Had to warn two fishing boats overnight that we've no engine and were drifting under sail alone with very little wind - asked Prince Rupert CG Radio to help contact second boat, which was not responding to my VHF calls. They probably saw Nereida on their AIS so knew we were very close. Both vessels eventually replied to my calls, saying they'd stay well away. Good fishing here, clearly!
Back to my bunk to catch up on sleep.

11:30am Having a late breakfast - lots of dried fruit, nuts and seeds with a small portion of cereal.. and a lovely fresh coffee. Found some flaked almonds, dried blueberries and apple rings tucked away to add in, and still have a ittle mango juice.
Sky very grey and totally overcast. Wind very light and SOG only 2kt, often less but now from SSE so not too helpful a direction. Might increase a little and become more W later today but beginning to throw a question mark over Wednesday arrival...

(Interview with Chek TV just now - will be on News tonight.)

ETA: Very unclear again, now. Wednesday was looking good up to midnight last night, but wind might not be strong enough - looks to be too light just now to make Victoria Hbr during daylight tomorrow unless wind picks up quite a bit ...which it might do... Only need an average of 4kt to make harbour by mid-afternoon tomorrow - but presently only making 2kt. (The weather gods seem to have decided to send their usual light winds into, and just outside, the Strait to slow us down... Grrr!!!)

DTF: Victoria Hbr (Ogden Pt breakwater): 115 n.ml.; Cape Flattery (~60n.ml. from Victoria Hbr entrance): 55 n.ml to ESE

*****************************************************
While sailing around the world, I'm trying to raise funds to help support the superb life-saving work done by the RNLI (Lifeboats) in Britain each and every day of the year, regardless how bad the weather. In fact, the worse it is, the more likely they are out there, helping someone in distress - whether a swimmer, surfer, small boat or big ship, night or day, summer or winter, and it is a charity - no government funding - so they rely on our help to fund their intensive training and maintain their equipment.

It would be great if you would take a moment to click on the Lifeboats link here (https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/Jeanne-Socrates2), if you'd like to show your support for my efforts at sailing solo, nonstop, unassisted around the globe, trying to set a World Record as the oldest person to do so, by donating something towards the great work the RNLI do every day. If a lot of people put in even a small amount, it all adds up... Thanks a lot! If you can help, it will be very much appreciated. Let's see if we can reach my target!

(I hear that some readers might need to talk to their bank BEFORE trying to make a donation to the RNLI since many US banks routinely block foreign transactions unless
they are notified in advance.)
***************************************************

1900GMT = midday PDT (Pacific Daylight Time) - end of Day 335. We made 80 n.ml. DMG, measured in a straight line between the two 1900GMT positions. Very light wind overnight... Plenty of drifting and struggling to keep to our ESE course...

Total distance covered from Victoria, B.C., to end of Day 335 (by daily DMGs): 27,771 n.ml.

Position, as posted to www.Winlink.org and www.Shiptrak.org (go to either of those websites with my US radio callsign, KC2IOV, to see my track over this entire voyage:
TIME: 2019/09/03 19:00GMT LATITUDE: 48-34.54N LONGITUDE: 126-05.64W
COURSE: 104T SPEED: 2.0kt
WIND_SPEED: 6kt WIND_DIR: SE SWELL_DIR: NW SWELL_HT: 1.4m CLOUDS: 100%
BARO: 1016.6hPa TREND: 0 AIR_TEMP: 20.0C SEA_TEMP: 21.0C
COMMENT: Wind backed more - SW now. Gybed mainsail. Very slow.