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S/V Nereida sails around the world

Day 1 from La Cruz de Juanacaxtle to Zihuatanejo - for their Guitarfest!

Monday 6th March 2017

On passage SE to Zihuatanejo from La Cruz. Lovely sail in Banderas Bay for a few hours before wind died - later to come back with a vengeance - NW wind built to 23 kt over yesterday evening - reefed down and still made good speed until wind abated and veered later in the night. Having to motor now against light wind from ahead. Bumpy ride in lumpy seas - 2m NW swell with SE wind waves on top... Uncomfortable!

Made 132 ml in 24 hr to this morning. Another 203 ml to go - ETA sometime before dawn Wed morning.

Midday - passing Manzanillo - busy port.

Safe arrival in Banderas Bay

Anchoring off Punta de Mita, as planned, in the pitch dark of a moonless night, was neither feasible nor safe… so came on to La Cruz marina, with lines and fenders ready for tying up on either side. Cruiser friends here helped me negotiate the confusing entrance channel lights and tie up - thanks to Debra and Al, who came out in their dinghy, and several others who gave helpful comments! Sleep….!!

Passing Isla Isabela

Soon after dawn, the sky cleared totally but the wind stayed ultra light at just 2-3 kt from NE.... so we've continued to motor solidly.
I decided to pass close by Isla Isabela to remind myself of the general layout and main anchorage in the S of the island. It's a bird reserve and a great place to chill out and enjoy snorkelling and walking. Boobies and frigate birds nest here and there are lots of iguanas. The high cliffs and dramatic stacks close offshore are white with guano.
I expect to make Punta de Mita soon after sunset to anchor there overnight before heading to La Cruz de Juanacaxtle tomorrow morning.

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Mazatlan Main Commercial Harbour

Old Mazatlan Harbour approach with distinctive high Hill to N of entrance not long after leaving.
Was having a good sail until just before 6pm , often well over 6kt in a good wind but then the wind began to die and our speed dropped a good knot... Land cooling down now...so lessening the enhanced onshore breeze. Forecast is for lighter winds over next day or so so I expect to have to do some motoring before this passage is finished.



Leaving Mazatlan -a lovely sail in bright sunshine

Making good speed under full canvas....., Passing Mazatlan old Harbour under sail, making for Pta de Mita. Lovely day. Saw some rays jumping - the same small dark Mobelo rays I've seen in the Sea of Cortez just North of here. Saw to a few problems while in Mazatlan and saw some friends - a good stop.



Arrival in Mazatlan - Mon 20th Feb 2017

Monday 20 February 2017

Had an absolutely wonderful sail over from San Jose de Cabo! With full genoa and two reefs in the main, we made 6-7 knots of speed in a good N wind despite the 2m swell on the beam that was constantly rolling us about. Not long before dawn, the wind had finally veered from the unexpected Southerly that had appeared on Sunday morning in San Jose whose harbour entrance had finally been left behind in the early afternoon bright sunshine.

My main worry was the timing of our entry over the entrance bar at Mazatlan, Having been there before, I knew how nasty it could be in the wrong conditions but I was relieved to find that there would be a prolonged stand of high water around the time of our expected arrival. That meant we were more likely to be able to enter safely, given the swell which was not likely to die down in the good wind we were enjoying, although the water was shallow for quite some way off the harbour entrance, which would help.

With our excellent speed over the day, I reckoned we'd just get there around sunset but it would be touch and go. Daylight would be helpful to see the narrow shallow winding entry channel clearly, as well as for negotiating the bar just before. My back-up plan was to anchor a short distance off in a popular anchorage between the shore and an island close by.

Of course, we were making such excellent speed under sail as we closed the coast that I had to plan ahead carefully - the sun had already just set so daylight was beginning to fade. I hoped to remember where a possible berth was that I'd been told was free - was it a port or starboard tie? I seemed to remember port. but wasn't completely sure.

Put out fenders and lines to port in the rough seas and hope for the best - worse case scenario would be to back off and change them all over. (Otherwise, put out fenders and lines on both sides - time-consuming - so that was a no-no!) I seemed to remember there was a problem with a lot of shallows around the marina area, so preferred to ready the boat for docking in advance of my arrival.

Ease the genoa sheets and furl in the full genoa - flapping madly - heart in mouth - would it furl in OK in view of previous problems? Easy, easy. No problema! It came in smoothly - big relief!!

Head upwind, with mainsail halyard prepared so it was free to run through the clutch. Drop it. Run forward to finish the job and secure the halyard and headboard.

Twilight. Head to the winking red and green lights at the harbour entrance - at speed, heart in mouth again - heart rate definitely well up! (Remember it's 'red right returning' here) I reckoned it was better to head to and over the bar fast, to maintain steerage in the beam-on seas, than to go slowly - I could always quickly ease off the engine revs the moment we were safely over.

We were swung about a lot as we got close. Light was almost gone.. Stay in the middle, keeping a constant eye on water depth, and don't get taken too far off to starboard where it shallows fast (I spotted a small winking white light warning of the edge of those shallows - I'd forgotten that was there). Stay in the middle.. We were over!

Follow the winding channel. eye on depth all the time. dark now. Head up and around to La Isla Mazatlan marina - watch out for several unlit tall piles looming up out of the darkness to starboard. I'm trying to remember where I'm supposed to be headed. Going very slowly now, to be safe.. On approaching the docks, I began to call out for help - to find the right berth and to get in safely in the darkness. There were lights inside some of the boats so, hopefully, people were on board. Suddenly, I saw people moving - and calling back to me - great! Approached the dock - port tie! - people there to help with lines. Thank you! My friends Gillian and Al, from my visit here two years earlier, had told people to expect me - so they were listening out - thanks again! Roberto, of 'Destiny' informed me we'd met at Svenson's in Alameda . ten years ago! Marie and Guy, of 'Notre Reve' invited me over for a celebratory drink when I was ready. I happily accepted and later spent a few hours relaxing with them before crashing out in my bunk to make up for lost sleep.

Plans while here are to climb the mast today (Tuesday) to investigate the problem at the mast head and also see what is catching on the genoa top furler to make it misbehave as it has been recently. and deal with a few other problems, if possible - plans put on hold while I relax over a very late, leisurely breakfast, before checking in with Marissa in the marina office.

This morning, the sun is shining brightly, a small flock of the many waders in this area are flying overhead, it's getting very warm - welcome to Mazatlan!

Sunrise on Monday morning at 1345Z

North wind up nicely now, so sailing at well over 6kt after beautiful clear night full of stars - Southern Cross and Milky Way clear to view.
Good-sized swell so we're rolling about rather a lot.
Hope to make Mazatlan soon after sunset today - with some daylight still, if I'm lucky.
Time for breakfast now after quick radio contact made earlier with two ham friends - one in California, the other in New Mexico.


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Sunset as Baja is left behind

0115 GMT/1815 LT was time of sunset tonight, as the Baja was left behind.
Wind has died but SW swell is quite pronounced, so a bit rolly.
Grey clouds over land ahead and astern but not much overhead
Air feels cool but it's 24C



Sunset leaving the Baja behind

0115GMT was sunset today. Air feels cool in the breeze but it's actually 25C Grey x clouds over land astern and ahead but little cloud overhead Wind has died but SW swell is quite pronounced so we're rolling quite a lot.

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Sunday 19th February - underway again

3.30pm Saturday Wind blew up a bit more and rain got heavier - but not for long... calm now, although pressure has dropped a lot over last 6 hrs - to 1007 now. Definitely time for hot food - just had some nice hot soup in a mug & have put some dried beans in to soak for tomorrow.

Later, more wind and rain again - but by sunset all was gone.

Sunday morning - Pressure has risen steeply to 1016 and there's a S wind blowing here in the marina, about 10 kt, I guess. Very little cloud and forecast is benign so I'm thinking I'll leave today for Mazatlan - wind is expected to become N ~20kt by time I arrive tomorrow afternoon, with possible calms in between - we'll see!

Photos already posted of noisy osprey on top of my neighbour's mast this morning.

I got out my gri-gri, thinking to climb the mast before leaving, in case there's an 'easy fix' to the masthead problem but realised time was getting late for heading out - so decided to leave climbing until after I get to Mazatlan tomorrow.

Would be nice to have wind info - and going up will give me a chance to look at the furler problem while I'm up there... Means I might have to use the staysail in place of the genoa, but that's rather small.

In the meantime, having left the marina around 1pm, the wind soon died right back - but is still from S - not as forecast!

I've 'lost' one hour! I forgot that the southern half of the Baja is one hour ahead of Pacific Standard Time, PST ...... same as in Mazatlan, in fact. (We're in Central Standard Time, CST, now)

Mast heads

One noisy osprey has laid claim to my neighbour 's masthead.
And my masthead is looking decidedly weird, with the metal top plate holding the wind instrument and vhf swung around by 90 degrees.
Bright sunshine and slight breeze - think I'll leave for Mazatlan later this morning.


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San Jose del Cabo - Saturday

Nice to be able to sleep as long as I want without the need to set alarms to wake me up frequently!!

Have been checking on weather situation - doesn't look as though the really strong winds will reach here - although there was some heavy rain overnight - grey, with 15-20kt win and occasional light rain now, but nothing much. Friends in Turtle Bay had 30 kt S winds, gusting higher last night - they’d moved to the S anchorage for protection.

By Sun/Mon, winds will have veered to N and are expected to stay settled from there for several days, becoming 15-20kt over Mon & Tues - a good time to sail - possibly to Mazatlan.

Later in week, winds will be light from NW quadrant, so not such good sailing conditions for heading SE towards La Cruz, athough perfectly tenable.

San Jose marina is mainly about small sports fishing boats - lots of US and Canadian registered boats here, taking advantage of the good fishing off Cabo San Lucas. But this is an expensive place to be in, with high tourist prices….

San Jose del Cabo - brown pelican

One very wary, but tame, brown pelican on his home base dock in San Jose del Cabo . I was on my walk back from the friendly but distant marina office after checking in there. Several other cruising boats are here, waiting for the threatened storm to pass by - but that is looking increasingly like a non event - possibly hitting Bahia Magdalena, but no further S.
In the meantime, I'm relaxing.....



Mssing mast track slide

Found this slide from a sail batten end, that came out yesterday from the mast track, on deck at the foot of the mast - clearly pulled out from the batten end cover - plastic, with no metal insert? Not strong enough.
Bright sun today; air still feeling cold except in the sun. Sea calm, a slight West wind, motoring still - as expected. No whales seen yet but another cruise ship said plenty around Cabo San Lucas.
Needing to change propane supply tank to galley- gave out y'day just as I finished cooking - so enjoyed my steak & onions etc- all just nicely cooked - lucky!
Expecting to arrive at Cabo San Lucas around sunrise tomorrow. Winds are forecast to stay light at ~5kt until after then so even if they back to S-SW from present W, we should be OK since, after rounding the Cape, we'll be heading 15 mls NE to the safety of San Jose del Cabo with its marina & fuel dock.



Missing mast track slide

Found this slide from a sail batten end, that came out yesterday from the mast track, on deck at the foot of the mast - clearly pulled out from the batten end cover - plastic, with no metal insert? Not strong enough.
Bright sun today; air still feeling cold except in the sun. Sea calm, a slight West wind, motoring still - as expected. No whales seen yet but another cruise ship said plenty around Cabo San Lucas.
Needing to change propane supply tank to galley- gave out y'day just as I finished cooking - so enjoyed my steak & onions etc- all just nicely cooked - lucky!
Expecting to arrive at Cabo San Lucas around sunrise tomorrow. Winds are forecast to stay light at ~5kt until after then so even if they back to S-SW from present W, we should be OK since, after rounding the Cape, we'll be heading 15 mls NE to the safety of San Jose del Cabo with its marina & fuel dock.




Missing mast track slide

Found this slide from a sail batten end, that came out yesterday from the mast track, on deck at the foot of the mast - clearly pulled out from the batten end cover - plastic, with no metal insert? Not strong enough.
Bright sun today; air still feeling cold except in the sun. Sea calm, a slight West wind, motoring still - as expected. No whales seen yet but another cruise ship said plenty around Cabo San Lucas.
Needing to change propane supply tank to galley- gave out y'day just as I finished cooking - so enjoyed my steak & onions etc- all just nicely cooked - lucky!
Expecting to arrive at Cabo San Lucas around sunrise tomorrow. Winds are forecast to stay light at ~5kt until after then so even if they back to S-SW from present W, we should be OK since, after rounding the Cape, we'll be heading 15 mls NE to the safety of San Jose del Cabo with its marina & fuel dock.