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S/V Nereida sails around the world

20th April 2014 - Happy Easter!!

I'm on my way back to 'Nereida' after a one-week diversion to New England for an enjoyable time meeting up with 'ham' radio friends made during my circumnavigations.

From 2011 on, I'd frequently chatted to Rick (WA1RKT), in New Hampshire, and on my last way around, from February 2013 onward, I made contact with John (W1QS), Brad (W1RQ), 'Woody' (WW1WW) and Alan (K1ALL), so it was great to meet them face to face!

Rick and Janet took me for a drive around Lake Winnipesaukee (largest lake in their home state of New Hampshire), passing through typical, lovely, wooded New England countryside, with mainly wood-clad homes everywhere.  Unlike England, from where I'd just flown into New York, trees weren't quite showing any new leaves yet and, over my second night with them, the temperature plummeted and overnight snow glistened the next morning.  Photos show Rick's snowy patio, with some of his several aerials, and his 'radio shack' from where he often chatted to me when in the S.Atlantic and S.Pacific Oceans
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On Tuesday, we had a highly sociable dinner date.  (Photo shows (L-R): Brad, Alan, Rick and Woody.)

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On Wednesday I was taken to Freeport (where I found some useful small items for 'Nereida' at L.L.Bean!) to meet with John and be driven on to his old farmhouse in Maine, where he & Marcia keep several lovely horses - a lot of work!

We had a fascinating, but all-too-short, visit to the Maine Maritime Museum in Bath where the ultra-modern lines of the newest U.S.Navy frigate(?), being finished in the Naval Yard close by the Museum, were noted as being very 'weird-looking' and totally 'un-boat-like'!  I heard it was designed to be like the Stealth fighter - almost invisible to radar.

We also had a very interesting tour around the Lyman Morse yard in Thomaston with its very comprehensive facilities.    Stanley Paris's 'Kiwi Spirit' and her construction and equipment details gave us plenty to discuss with our knowledgeable host, Drew Lyman (son of Cabot).

The snow lay around in New England all that week, with temperatures well down.  All too soon, I was on my way back to a very mild New York, with its very helpful bus drivers, from where I flew on to Hermosillo (Mexico) via Phoenix, where I was to be greeted by friends Bill & Michaela, who were to drive me down to San Carlos.

I'd had a busy few weeks back in England, trying to catch up with friends, family and paperwork, in between organising items to bring back for 'Nereida' and attending two Dinners.    One was at the Royal Thames Yacht Club in Knightsbridge, a short walk from a famous store (!), where I was presented with the Royal Cruising Club's 'Seamanship Medal'
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and the other was on board the historic vessel HQS Wellington, (home of the "Honourable Company of Master Mariners") by the Thames Embankment, where I received the Ocean Cruising Club's 'Barton Cup'.   (I also heard that I had been recognised by Guinness World Records as being the oldest woman to sail solo, nonstop, unaided around the world!)

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Postscript

I regret to say that due to an unfortunate accident early on Monday, on my way to see 'Nereida' in dry storage here in San Carlos, I broke my collar-bone.   So I'll be rather restricted in my work efforts for a few weeks, although the yard will be doing some good jobs for me in the meantime - mainly preparing the boat underwater surface ready for applying Coppercoat, applying Propspeed and making a hard top (dodger) over the companionway to replace the present canvas awning.  Fortunately, of the many jobs waiting for me, several are small ones, so I should be able to get those done, once I'm feeling a bit better.   The police and ambulance service here in San Carlos were highly efficient and I was soon being X-rayed & seen by a good doctor.   I'm now being well looked after by kind Bill & Michaela.

More New York photos ... and news from Devon, England!

25th March 2014

A typical Devon cream tea - with thick clotted cream, raisin scones and fruity strawberry jam!
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A few more photos from my stay in New York at the impressive New York Y.C., where I received the C.C.A.'s Blue Water Medal on 7th March.  Photos (by CCA's Dan Nerney) give a good view of the famous N.Y.Y.C Model Room, its walls covered with half-models of boats dating from around 1840 onward, as well as scale models of the pairs of America's Cup yachts from its beginning to recently.
      2014 CCA Annual  175   2014 CCA Blue Water Medalist
          2014 CCA Annual  300     2014 CCA Annual  308
Here's a link to my CBS interview on 5th March in New York
The next day was beautifully sunny and I enjoyed Central Park, where the snow was rapidly melting....
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followed by a visit to the New York Metropolitan Art Museum to see, among many other interesting items, a performance by some North American Indian dancers and some beautiful bronzes of cowboys and indians in action (photos: Carol Ross):
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The week after my flight to London, I drove down to Devon.   I spent several days with friends, one evening giving a presentation to Salcombe Y.C. and one day enjoying a lovely walk through the countryside in Spring sunshine.    Devon is full of tiny narrow lanes, winding around the hilly countryside between deep banks, and the wild violets and primroses were all fully out, along with occasional cowslips and lots of daffodils. It's full of old buildings and sturdy stone walls & gate-posts, many about five hundred years old:
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The walk was to Slapton Ley and started from Stokenham.  It was in an area taken over by US troops in WWII to practise for the Normandy landings - but 749 were killed in a major disaster when German boats caught them one night, virtually unprotected as the troop-carriers were offshore practising.  It took Kevin Small, a local, many years to uncover the truth - along with recovering one of the many Sherman tanks that still lie on the seabed.  It's still not known where the US soldiers' & sailors' bodies were buried - in a field, I was told, somewhere near to Slapton Sands which they used because that coast is similar to the Normandy beaches used for the landings.  All the local families had been evacuated from their homes in the entire area of our walk to make way for the troops - a major upheaval for them, in already difficult times.

View W over Slapton Ley, looking over to Start Point in the distance and the beach (Slapton Sands) on the left.  The tank is beside Slapton  Ley.
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                                                                                      kYsJd
       

From Ensenada to Turtle Bay-Cabo San Lucas-Sea of Cortez -Austin - New York for the Blue Water Medal

February - March 2014

The highlight was flying to the impressive New York Y.C.
in Manhattan, to receive the Cruising Club of America's
prestigious Blue Water Medal on 7th March:  
                                                                                                    I stopped off on the way in Austin, Texas, to visit with Brad, NA5BD,
                                                                                                    and his wife Susan, who were lovely, kind hosts, and also Tom,
                                                                                                   N5TW, who had been so extremely helpful to me on my way around.
                                                                                                     To my delight &surprise, Tom proudly presented me with a signed
                                                                                                    "Official Recognition' of my solo nonstop sail, signed by the                          
                                                                                                    Governor of Texas!
                                                                           

 On my way down the Baja coast from Ensenada, I had stopped in Turtle Bay to meet up with cruiser friends Randy and Joy, on board 'Spirit of Hanalei' ... and Joy went to a big effort to make sure I celebrated St Valentine's Day with them in style:
    We spent an enjoyable two evenings together, along with several other cruisers in the Bay, before I left to sail (or rather motor, most of the way!) S to Cabo San Lucas - where, for a few hours, I had a great, although 'lively', sail around the Cape in the increased wind offshore.   The Baja coastline on the way south was very arid but often quite spectacular, with lots of hills and mountains, whereas the approach to Cabo was low and sandy, with the dramatic rocky outcrops for which it's justly famous, being unmistakeable, even from well out to sea.
                    

I had arranged to stop briefly in San Jose del Cabo, around from Cabo San Lucas, to meet up with another 'ham' friend I'd never seen, despite frequent radio contacts over several years.. Mike, KC0YHM, met up for a lovely evening meal after I discovered he was on my route while chatting on the radio earlier - but, WOW! - San Jose is SO expensive....They wanted to charge me $50 just for stopping on the fuel dock for a short time, let alone going for a meal ...
                     
 It took a lot of persuasion (and a look at my website) not to be charged... and they made quite sure I didn't stop overnight...  So off I sailed  in the lingering rosy dusk, towards La Paz - a good day's sail away, where cruiser friends were at anchor...  It was good to meet up with my good friend Steve on 'Westerly' and also with Robert on 'Del Viento', whose two young daughters are thoroughly enjoying the cruising life.  It got quite 'interesting' coming through the rather narrow, very long channel at night, bordered by very shoal water, towards the marina de La Paz where I stopped well after midnight - luckily spotting the fuel dock which was long and empty - all other slips seemed to be taken...   I had a very good, undisturbed sleep until late morning, followed by a lovely hot shower - one advantage of motoring!  Several people came by to greet me and I spent a very pleasant day at the marina and fuelled up before leaving again overnight - San Carlos was still a good distance away and there was no wind - flat calm, in fact (better that than the possible strong 'Northers' which could have been on our nose up the Sea of Cortez).

As I finally got close to Guaymas and San Carlos, I was met by several boats who came out to greet me - how nice is that?!  Friend Bill on 'Contigo' had put out the word that I was coming in ....   It was early still so, despite very little wind, I turned off the motor and sailed gently for a few hours - it was very pleasant not to be rushing for a change!

'Contigo' and 'Kharmaseas' keeping us company towards San Carlos:
                     

I was pleasantly surprised by the lovely rock formations and rugged scenery... so that's why I've heard so often that the Sea of Cortez is beautiful?
                       
 I entered San Carlos Bay and was soon tied to a dock...  It's a friendly, safe place and it's nice and warm!   Pitt, from 'Kharmaseas' came over and insisted on being really helpful, stowing sails and cleaning the dusty deck....  I was due to haul out, ready for being absent for several weeks, so his help was much appreciated - as were all the friendly people around.

My flight to Austin from Hermosillo was made far easier at the start with a lift all the way to the airport - many thanks to Chuck of 'Laila' ...   A flight change at Phoenix was enjoyable - I met up with Sid, K7SID, and his wife for a chat - we'd 'met' several times on a morning radio Net, on 7.155 MHz, when I often spoke to Gil, N2GG, and others - all very friendly!

Tom & Brad met me at Austin airport - it was great to meet Tom finally, after having been in touch for most of my RTW sail - he'd been so often very helpful, both with my emailing from deep in the S.Pacific and S. Atlantic, around the Horn, and also helping with 'voice' emailing over the radio when my computers had failed me in the final two months.   Brad is a friend of Tom and also a sailor - he'd organised two evening Presentations for me: at Austin Y.C. and the Radio Club - both were very successful and friendly events.
     
 Austin Y.C....
               

                           

On Saturday, I got to see around Tom's impressive array - FOUR towers, with all the  ancillary wiring and equipment - I certainly benefitted from it and can't thank him enough for all his friendly time and effort - and expertise!
                               

After the Austin Amateur Radio Club meeting:              I used Brad's rig to take part in a local evening VHF Net one day:

                                               

Sunday - back to Austin Y.C. for a big social event - what should have been their opening race of the season on the lake - 40ft lower in level than it should be... They've had to move the docks several times for boats to be able to be in deep enough water!!  I took the opportunity to mention how helpful Tom had been to me. (His rig is set up for instant emergency radio coverage in the region and has also just helped with the communications of a  Medical Mission to Honduras - they go annually to help the people there)  I also tried to draw attention to the SeaBC and its efforts in trying to encourage boaters of all kinds to collect information and statistics on sea bird distribution - something we cruisers are in a particularly good position to do...

                      

To Hutt's on Monday, for a special meal   ......                           ........     and a buffalo attracts my attention!

                      

I enjoyed a visit to the Museum of Texas, the 'Lone Star' state, getting a good idea of its history, .... lots of excellent exhibits:
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and then it was time, sadly, to bid my farewells and fly on to New York ....

.....where I met with Scott Rapaport who interviewed me about my Blue Water Medal award for CBS News (here he is editing the interview - I'm standing in the CBS  Newsroom where a lot of the news items are prepared.
         

Friend Rich, N2EYK, gave me a 'grand tour' of the CBS studios - the engineering side is all being constantly upgraded and they do a lot of their own development work - something I hadn't realised.   And everything is totally backed up so that should one item fail, another immediately is already on line, ready to take over seamlessly.  He showed me the four dedicated NFL studios - American football is pretty important to viewers!!

     

Friday 7th March was a great evening, preceded by another CCA dinner on Thursday - both very friendly events, culminating in my receiving the Blue Water Medal - see picture above, taken the next morning.

The facade of the New York Y.C. is imposing:                                and contrasts with this lovely spire, topping a modern building seen from W44th St:
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I had the one day of sunshine and above-freezing temperatures on Saturday, to enjoy a lovely walk and lunch with friends in Central Park (i loved the 'Alice in Wonderland' bronze group the kids were all clambering over!) and a visit to the Metropolitan Museum.    We caught some American Indian dancing, just by a lucky chance, before heading off for a nice Italian meal.  Later, I ambled around Times Square and Broadway, very close to the New York Y.C. where I was staying, and popped into O'Donoghue's Irish Bar for some Guinness and lively Irish music before a late return to pack, ready for a flight to Heathrow early Sunday morning. (More photos in my next report)

                                             

I'm now in London, catching up on paperwork and writing - trying to beat sailing magazine deadlines - and hoping to see family and friends in between ....busy!   On 3rd April, I'll be receiving the Royal Cruising Club's Seamanship Medal and on 12th April I'm to receive the Ocean Cruising Club's Barton Cup - both major awards.... but both will be very friendly events, I'm sure.
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Photos from last year - leaving San Francisco in bright sunshine in November, to head under the Golden Gate Bridge towards Santa Cruz -
                              
where the pelicans, sealions and assorted seabirds were going mad, feeding on a vast shoal of tiny fish in and around the harbour entrance - aerators had been brought in to the harbour waters to try to avoid the fish dying from lack of oxygen, they were so numerous.

                           

                                                                                           

.........then we headed on S, past the typically dry, hilly California coast...

                                         

eventually past Pt. Arguello and Pt. Conception, towards San Diego.   There, several 'ham' friends came to visit 'Nereida' & a few of us went on to visit the carrier USS Midway - in particular, its  radio room.   The tour was arranged by Mark, AF6TC, with the help of Hal, KI2HAL, who kindly guided us around, ending with the enormous flight deck with its many planes and helicopters on display:

 Hal gave us a tour of all the radio equipment, a lot of it of historical interest and I had a chance to make a brief transmission using the Midway radio - the ship's Special Event call sign was NI6IW when it operated from the USS Midway Museum Radio Room on Pearl Harbor Remembrance Day December 7....
                                           
The switching was impressive - Susan, Mark and I couldn't get over how just many switches there were here!! Eric, WA7LNH, was pretty impressed as well!             
                                                           

Arrival in San Carlos, from Ensenada via San Jose del Cabo and La Paz

23rd February 2014   A long-overdue report...

Arrival back in Ensenada from UK, via San Diego, was late in January - and Navico's local Mexican experts immediately came to help sort out my VHF radio problems - very much appreciated!   Ensenada was warm in daytime but got very cold at night but Cruiseport marina was  notable for its warm, friendly community .   Leaving was delayed - an electrical fire on board was luckily averted when the starboard navlight was found to have shorted and burnt out, with wiring overheating as a result - a certain fire hazard if left.   More rewiring problems were dealt with and we finally got away, with lots of newly-made friends to say a regretful "Goodbye" to, on Wed 12th February - with Joey and Pete coming out in a dinghy to video my departure.

I decided to pause in Bahia de Tortugas where Randy and Joy were anchored and rafted up to 'Spirit of Hanalei'.   We had a great Valentine's party with two nearby boats and another enjoyable get-together the next evening with a new arrival - most of us knew each other from San Diego and/or Ensenada - typical of cruising!  The dusty village was explored - mostly subsisting on fishing and visiting cruisers, with only a few tourists visiting by land.  I needed to find the local Telcel shop - its large towers were easily visible inland from the fuel dock, where  a dinghy landing was made among large numbers of seabirds and their 'guano'...

The wind was often too light to sail, so the motor was turned on for most of the passage south, but occasionally the wind would get up nicely and I had a particularly good downwind sail one night, heading on S down past the thoroughly arid, desert scenery of the Baja California peninsula - with its often dramatic peaks and eroded sand-coloured hillsides.  I kept a look out for whales - but only saw dolphins, always a pleasure when they keep the boat company, leaping around.  Randy and Joy later went to San Ignacio Whale Reserve, not far S of Turtle Bay, and recounted being surrounded by large numbers of greys - an amazing experience, they said.

It's never good to be sailing to a deadline as I was, needing to reach San Carlos fairly quickly, to catch a flight out to New York via Austin, Texas, soon.  I passed Bahia Magdalena where I'd had the amazing experience in 2004 of leaving my overnight anchorage at sunrise, to be surrounded by  whales near and far - even diving under the boat as I passed close to them unavoidably.  This time I passed the entrance overnight and didn't stop, making instead for Cabo San Lucas - whose increased winds gave a vigorous, lively, thoroughly enjoyable sail , albeit in rough waters until rounding into its lee, where the wind slowly dropped away almost completely.   A local 'panga' with two tourists, clearly on a 'whale-watching' outing, came speeding up to me to ask if I'd seen any whales.  I was keeping well offshore but saw a cluster of pangas at one point closer inshore - a whale there, possibly?

Cabo San Lucas is renowned for its sport fishing but is very expensive so I didn't stop, instead making for San Jose del Cabo a short distance further N, on the inside of the Baja peninsula, where I was hoping to meet up with a 'ham ' radio contact I'd spoken to at times since 2007 from the S. Atlantic.  With difficulty, I persuaded the Marina office there NOT to charge me for stopping 2-3 hours while Mike, KC0YHM, and I went for a pleasant meal and chat in the old town.  $50 for a stop of even just10 minutes seemed rather excessive to my mind!

So I took off at 10pm, without my hoped-for short sleep beforehand, to sail on up the coast towards La Paz - actually a total motoring exercise in 2-4kt of wind... There was beautiful sunset on each of the two hot days it took to get there and lovely starry nights.  Again, I was only stopping in the hope of meeting up with cruiser friends - and managed two of three...   Robert of 'Del Viento', whose family I'd first met in Victoria, B.C., came by the fuel dock next morning in Marina de La Paz, where I had been fortunate to find a lovely long, empty space on arrival there in the dark the previous night.

I'd hoped to raft up to another friend's boat that evening, in peaceful Bahia Balandra, a short distance from La Paz town with its long entrance channel bordered by extensive shoals.  But the wind and sea had got up that afternoon and the small bay was open to the swell, so it was too rolly safely to raft up, as I'd hoped to.   I then found I had a problem removing the bowsprit and releasing the anchor-pin, although I later persevered with that, and finally succeeded in freeing the anchor ready for possible use in case I couldn't find an empty dock to tie to.   Steve, of 'Westerly', who I knew from my 2006 Single-Handed Transpac Race from San Francisco to Kauai, has cruised Mexico regularly since then but is hoping to explore more of the Sea of Cortez, as I do, once repairs and other works on "Nereida' are completed - in June, hopefully.  It was good to catch up over a meal before I left late in the afternoon to head N towards San Carlos,  with several islands passed on the way meaning only short naps were possible so as to keep a frequent watch.    Another windless passage, with hot sun in the daytime - but better than bashing into a 'Norther' which could have been a distinct possibility.

In La Paz it was nice to meet up with a lot of friendly cruisers and I had a lovely arrival in San Carlos where a small group of boats, headed by Bill and Micheila on  came out to welcome me in - it still feels rather odd when people I've never met before come up to shake my hand and greet me!   Having made good time, it was very good to cut the motor and sail very gently towards the dramatic rocky headlands on either side of the entrance to San Carlos Bay where the marina lies tucked away - it's quite a well-known hurricane hole.

I made a lot of radio contacts each morning and evening while on passage - often with people I've now met face to face!   I'll be hauling the boat soon, here in San Carlos, before heading to Austin for presentations to the Yacht Club on Friday and the Radio Club on Saturday.  I'm looking forward to visiting Austin - it's well-known for its music and Brad, NA5BD, and Tom, N5TW, (who helped me a lot with radio communications while I was circumnavigating) will be hosting me.  The following Tuesday, I fly into New York to stay at the N.Y.Y.C., ready for the Cruising Club of America's Awards Dinner on Friday 7th March - when I'll be receiving their 'Blue Water Medal'.

From New York, I'll be flying to London, to take part in an ITV Show - that should be fun!  And in April I'll be receiving the OCC's Barton Cup..... and at some point I'll be receiving the Royal Cruising Club's 'Seamanship Medal' So there's lots happening just now .... and lots of people being met up with...

Work on 'Nereida' that I'd expected to have finished by now is being put 'on hold' until my return.   Typically, friends Robert and Rose, whose boat 'Tillicum' has been totally stripped and refurbished here over the last year , are still busy - each project seems to turns into another unexpected one and they're running several months beyond their expected finish date.

(Photos to be posted soon....)

Ensenada and London

London, 9th January 2014

  London Boat Show Jan2014 - JS + Princess Anne (Click here for video)                                 Ben Ainslie Boat Show 8Jan2014  

Arrived in rainy, windy London on New Year's Eve and it's been nice to catch up with family and friends since then, as well as being able to visit the London Boat Show this week.   I've been privileged to meet with Princess Anne, Ben Ainslie (see photo above). Mike Golding, Geoff Holt, ...  and have had help with boat-related queries/items from several people - thanks to Andy of Andark Diving, Pauline of Henri Lloyd, Stuart and Karen of Commodore Sailing, Amber of Aquafax (Lewmar), among others.   The UK Boat Shows are always good places to discuss and get boat problems positively resolved!

Very many grateful thanks are due to Keith (in Newcastle) of British Airways - for kindly coming back to me with a change of flight, saving an expensive day-long bus trip down (and back up) the entire Baja peninsula to catch a flight to London from Cabo SL (San Diego is so much closer to Ensenada) - becoming a direct flight between San Diego and LHR, rather than having to change at LAX.

And more grateful thanks for the helpfulness and honesty of the ABC bus company of Ensenada/Tijuana and also heartfelt thanks to boaters Spike, Victor, George etc, in Cruiseport marina (Ensenada) who spent quite some time retrieving my missing suitcase & computer bag (thought I'd never see either again!) - the result of a difficult Mexico/USA border-crossing and misunderstanding on my part after catching a bus to Tijuana from Ensenada ..... "All's well that ends well!!"  The only problem is not having either my suitcase or my computer with me in the UK now (they're both back on 'Nereida') - so I've been unable to respond to a lot of emails I'd hoped to deal with while here.

I had a warm welcome from many cruisers in Ensenada on my arrival there from San Diego in December and Enrique and Jonathan in the Cruiseport marina office have been really helpful, both with my initial clearing in to Mexico and since then.   Having never been on a motor-bike before, it was an enjoyable experience to be driven as a pillion-passenger from Ensenada to Del Mar, just north of San Diego, for a short but enjoyable visit to a welcoming Polish family for their 'Wigilia' celebration on Christmas Eve.

The 'Yachtsman of the Year' award today went to Bob Shepton  for his recent trips through the NW passage with crew - often disadvantaged young people ... I'd been shortlisted along with Mike Golding.
Bob Shepton & Jeanne Socrates 2
The Trinity House venue across from the Tower of London was full of interesting history of the pilots, lighthouses, lightships and lights all around the UK (and at Europa Point, Gibraltar!) for which they are responsible and the Luncheon was an enjoyable event.   While there, I was pleasantly surprised to be told by the Commodore of the Royal Cruising Club of an unexpected award - their prestigious 'Seamanship Medal' - that they wanted to award me in March - but in view of my being in NY at that time, hopefully it can be presented later this year when I'm back in the UK - maybe September.   It was also announced at the O.C.C. Dinner (on Friday 10th Jan) that I'm to be awarded the Barton Cup in April - another high honour!

I've been rather put out to think that I'll be missing the 'Golden Oldies' awards event in February at Simpson's in the Strand, with Terry Wogan hosting what sounds like a fun-filled evening of laughs - they wanted to give me the 'There's Still Snap Left in the Celery' award !!!

I'm looking forward to my return to San Diego and on to Mexico with several useful boat items, ready for sailing around to San Carlos, in the Sea of Cortez, where I'll be busy sorting the boat out over the following few weeks (apart from my visit to New York at the beginning of March).

About ready to leave San Diego for Ensenada, Mexico

Difficult to believe I've been in San Diego for  so long.  I've been busy with boat 'projects' but have also enjoyed meeting and chatting to people, as well as giving three Presentations -  at the CCA's November Dinner at Newport Harbor Y.C., at South Western Y.C. where I am now for a few days until I leave for Mexico and also at San Diego Y.C. where I delayed leaving in order to be able to give a Presentation on 11th December and where I was berthed until Sunday afternoon.  As I was moving over to my new berth at SWYC around sunset, many brightly-lit boats, some with enormous inflatable Santa Claus's on board, were leaving for the Port of San Diego's Annual Parade of Lights.   I've had a warm welcome from several Club members here at SWYC - known as the 'friendly Y.C.' - and that's certainly been my impression!

On the Friday that Eric, WA7LNH, flew down from Seattle (bringing a blast of Arctic air with him), Mark, AF6TC, organized a visit to the 'Midway' and its radio room in particular, where our guide, Hal (KI2HAL, ex-radio-room operator), told us all about it.  Midway is an impressively large aircraft carrier, with a big variety of planes on show on its topmost deck, completed just in time to miss action in WWII!   We all had breakfast together, along with Mark's wife Susan (KJ6DIT) and a couple more 'hams' who came that had never met face-to-face with any of us before, but with whom I'd made contact on my way around earlier this year - Bruce (W6HTC) and Ron (N6XT).

Saturday 30th November saw a trip to Tijuana to visit the Baja Radio Club - a warm welcome from its members who greeted me and showed me over the clubhouse and 'shack' after a lovely typical brunch.   An enjoyable day but it took four hours to get back over the border!!

Last Thursday, early, I had a phonecall from UK - could I be present on 9th January in London?  - I've been shortlisted for the 'Yachtsman of the Year Award', along with Mike Golding and Bob Shepton...   Unbelievable news....  Especially taken with the 'Blue Water Medal' I'm being flown into New York to receive next March.

Tonight, I'm preparing to 'sail' (probably motoring!) to Ensenada - just 60miles away, so 10-12 hrs.   Paid a last visit (on my fold-up bike along the lovely foreshore footpath) to friendly Downwind Marine to buy items I've been needing - furling lines and new genoa & staysail sheets along with a few other things...  Sea of Cortez Guide included.   Cleared Customs yesterday, just N of the cruise ship terminal - a delightful experience - one of the nicest ever US Customs officials - thank you, Jeremy!!

From Pt Arguello to San Diego

Wednesday 27th November - Happy Thanksgiving (on Thursday) to my US friends!

San Diego has been mainly sunny during the daytime, getting very warm at times, in the midday sun,but the temperature plummets as the sun sets and it's been nice to have  been able to warm the boat up quickly with my heater.

Eventually had a lovely sail, after motoring away from Santa Cruz on 11th November, with wind having increased on 12th Nov, as we neared Point Arguello and then the nearby Point Conception - getting quite strong rounding Arguello.   But it swung and soon died once we were in the lee of Conception around sunset, with the bright lights of the several oil rigs in the Santa Barbara Channel directly in our path as we stayed just outside the shipping lanes on our way to Marina del Rey, with the Channel Islands in clear view not far away to the west.

The entrance to Marina del Rey (which is an area S of Santa Monica and Hollywood, full of marinas) is protected by a large breakwater which was lined with lots of pelicans and smelled strongly of decaying fish and kelp as we entered.    I stopped at California Y.C., just before 4pm PST on 13th Nov, for one night before moving over to the friendly Del Rey Y.C. where I was able to speak (at very short notice!) about my sailing to a meeting of the Association of Santa Monica Bay Yacht Clubs after they'd finished their evening's business.
 My computer was completely playing up next day, and the wi-fi was not very good, so I spent a very frustrating time, achieving very little, but in a relaxing, comfortable, spacious lounge area, with plenty of fresh coffee available. I was made to feel very welcome by Jo Goodman (who, when I gave him my boat card as we chatted, replied with a card simply stating: 'GOD' - telephone 'unlisted'!), who later introduced me to Bruce Kessler - well-known for his racing. film-making and more recently his sailing and power-boating.   Hollywood's closeness was apparent , with most people I met seeming to be connected in some way.
It was great to catch up with my Japanese classical guitarist friend Goh Kurasawa, who I first met in Zihuatanejo at their Guitarfest in 2005, and the next evening with a 'ham'/cruiser friend I'd not seen for a long time - Scott, N6ABC used to be the CalYC Winlink sysop before he got away cruising in 'Beach House'.
On my final morning at Del Rey Y.C., before motoring in yet another flat calm  to Newport Beach, I was welcomed by Jo, Bruce and friends to their usual Saturday morning joint breakfast - fresh coffee accompanied a gift to me of a large beigle smothered in cream cheese and smoked salmon - totally decadent but delicious!!

Newport Beach was all that I had feared it might be -basically a 'concrete jungle' beside lots of quite shallow water, with a near-desert, slightly hilly landscape backing it, albeit relieved by some lovely flowering succulents in a few places -not my favourite place so far, and not helped by an inexplicably unfriendly reception by the General Manager of Balboa Y.C, (where I'd previously offered to talk about my sailing) - in stark contrast to several of  his staff and members I met up with, who were very friendly and pleasant.    (I should explain that I had understood that they granted the 3 nights of free berthing often given by Clubs to visiting boats. especially if foreign, and so I'd hoped it might be possible for the single night I was unexpectedly informed of to be extended to a second night - a request which was turned down in a quite unnecessarily rude manner, along with the comment that lots of people had done what I'd done..!)
 Fortunately, I'd been able to meet up not only with some new boat friends but was delighted to meet with Tom, WA6TLL, brought by daughter Judy to visit on Saturday evening.  At nearly 90 yrs of age, he's still very active on the Pacific Seafarers Net and often helps cruisers with phone 'patches', via ham radio, to their families.    Sunday brought more 'ham' visitors - John, N6MJC, turned up unexpectedly, as I finished breakfast, having heard I'd come into Newport Beach, and then Gil, N2GG, with his family, also came along and took me off to spend a pleasant day with them, including a trip to look at his 'mobile shack' where we picked a few nearly-ripe grapefruit - this is California!

Early on Monday 12th November, ... off again, motoring in almost no useful wind - to the small Oceanside Y.C. - very helpful and happy to see us and the other boat that came in later.    It felt far more pleasant than Newport Beach, with greenery around and a pair of fish eagles spotted high up as I walked around the marina.   I could have stayed on but had a date in San Diego on Tuesday where I was expected at the San Diego Y.C.'s Cruise Fleet Dinner - arrived at just in time after yet another day of little wind, having needed to fuel up before finding my berth.   It was good to see friend Ed (first met in Dec 2004) and wife Percia and was warmly greeted by several other Club members at the Dinner.

Since then, I've met more friends here in San Diego- in particular, it was really good to meet up with Robert, WA6AMK, and Mark, AF6TC, having talked to them so much on HF all the way back, since 16th February, when S of the Indian Ocean, on the way from Africa to Australia.   Robert has been particularly helpful since our first meeting, taking me around in his car to get things done and sometimes diverting a bit to show me some of the sights around.

Time seems to be flying by with lots still to do... but I'm looking forward to chatting to the Junior sailors on Friday when they get back off the water and I'm giving a Presentation here at the San Diego Y.C. on 11th December.   It was ' Wednesday coffee and doughnuts' at Downwind Marine this morning - a chance to meet up with others headed down to Mexico around the same time and chew over mutual problems.   I went into the nearby loft to check on my sails - two genoas and the mainsail in for 'tweaking' - and yesterday I discovered the outboard engine needed a new cover gasket.... That's in addition to the engine needing a look at, along with the dinghy...

Santa Cruz

Monday 11th November 2013

Up to have breakfast in the open air in company at Aldo's (with Suzy, John, Brian), before heading over to the fuel dock with Brian for some circling around, while waiting to tie up and top up with diesel - lots more motoring is likely in the light winds expected during the 2-day passage to Marina del Rey - in between Santa Monica and Los Angeles.

It's been a busy 3-day stay in Santa Cruz with at least one good job done - I finally fixed the rod-kicker/vang firmly in place onto the boom with three machine-screws on Saturday - two were completely missing and the third had come completely loose, so the mainsheet was just holding down the boom, whose end was rather high. A nearby boater kindly helped pull out the split pin and knock out the clevis pin holding the kicker connection onto the boom and the rest was straightforward.

That was done in between lots of visitors - it's been delightful to have had so many people coming by when they realized I was tied up in the harbour - some had read of my travels in 'Latitude 38', others via my website logs, but all were friendly and it was lovely of them to take the time to stop by to welcome me to Santa Cruz. Brian Beers and his wife Louisa have been great - as well as dining together, laundry was dealt with and wholesome soups and snacks, as well as a big bag of 'long-term goodies', were left with me - I'm going to have to ration my intake if my waist is to remain intact!

It was great to watch some of the local Junior sailors rig up their Lasers before going out on Sunday in light airs.... to be among pelicans, gulls and sealions in a feeding frenzy inside and outside the harbour entance, where a large shoal of anchovies have been present for quite some time - and are being fed on by whales as well. (I kept hearing that two whales, at least, were just off the breakwater nearby, but missed seeing them.) Big 'aerators' have been installed in the river to try to prevent a recurrence of the recent mass 'die-off' of the anchovies - there were so many of them in the water, they were starved of oxygen.

Ham friends came by both to chat and to help ... We all had lunch and Jim, K9YC, came back two days later and spent quite a time with a view to reducing RF noise on the radio using big ferrites - I'd had to empty out the aft cabin (again ..... no mean feat!) to access wiring and was able to add a 'noise silencer' to the coax lead at the tuner. I later had help from Ray Millard, with his sailing grand-daughter Lilly and family, who'd driven over to visit from Monterey, with putting the cabin back together so I could sleep there Sunday night....

Suzy C. came by and took me out to the 'surfing hotspot' (calm sea, NO surf ...!) close to the green O'Neill house overlooking the sea, after we'd first walked out to the light-house to watch the dive-bombing pelicans, excited terns and gulls and the well-organized sealions working the anchovies in groups - a good photo-opportunity! I chatted to cruisers on two visiting boats - sturdy aluminium 'Perpetua' from Bellingham is headed S (I tried to help them with their radio/emailing set-up) and wooden 'Morning Star' was headed N, back home to Alameda - they were lucky to have light S winds to help that passage yesterday.

Very many thanks to everyone (including Greg at SCYC), especially Brian & Jim. I enjoyed my stay and would have liked to have stayed a bit longer.

As I've been writing this, darkness has been falling and we've just rounded Point Sur,with its light-house flashing a bright white light every 1 in 15 seconds on a coast otherwise almost devoid of lights. I had a short sleep earlier and have set the radar on alarm, as well as the usual AIS. But I'll still have to grab just very short naps overnight- we're not offshore enough to do anything else. The wind is light northerly, our course is SSE and we're having to motor to maintain 5kt with mainsail set, but doing very little.

Moving on..

Thursday 7th November 2013

Up well before dawn to leave San Francisco - rather regretfully, since it has been a very pleasant stay with so many friendly SFYC members and staff. Many thanks to John Sanford for encouraging me to visit the club as his guest, although the club finally took over that role, thanks to their Deputy Port Captain's intervention. I look forward to re-visiting sometime.

The Spectra watermaker is now totally reconditioned, thanks to Bill & Darren, and I'm looking forward to using it in remote areas at anchor. I've had strict instructions to flush it through (easily done...) with fresh water after each use, to protect the membrane etc., but it's now 'pickled' since I don't need it while hopping down the coast to Mexico. I also had the genset looked at by Anders - he found the small diesel pump was slightly cracked and leaking - so I pulled out my spare to replace it immediately. The other good news was being offered a gift of two hardly-used genoas by Andy Fromm to replace my torn, worn-out one - we were chatting over a meal one evening and he said he had 26 sails in his garage which his wife, understandably, felt he should get rid of... He's a keen racer and just doesn't use the original cruising nor the older racing sails he'd accumulated. The hoist length was a perfect fit...

I've been busy organizing the aft cabin contents, all of which had to be removed for the watermaker service, and I hung two doors - which had been stowed in Port Townsend with Rob Parish for the last three years! I finished hanging them around 11.30pm last Saturday - just in time to enjoy the last of the Commodore's Ball dancing and music - after a suitable change of clothing! Tim helped me stow other bulky items in the forepeak yesterday - that's still waiting to be dealt with properly, but at least I'm now able to sleep in the aft cabin - first time for three years!

Had a lovely, sunny day on the water, motor-sailing initially in calm seas, south to Santa Cruz, with pelicans lined up on the breakwater as I left Belvedere Cove in the pre-dawn light and the occasional seal and sealion spotted in the water close to the Golden Gate as dawn broke over San Francisco and Alcatraz .

By early afternoon, after some solid motoring with light fog lurking just off the coast all morning and plenty of birdlife seen in the good-sized swell, the wind suddenly picked up as we were rounding Pt Ano Nuevo - to around 23kt! So we had a great sail for 2-3hours, until close to Sta. Cruz at sunset, when the wind died again... I managed to get in safely in the dark, through the shallows surrounding the harbour entrance at Low Water (!), with Brian Beers helping from on shore. (He brought me several delicious fresh items from his bakery)

I'd given a very well-attended, enjoyable presentation at the Tiburon Y.C. Friday week ago - in a lovely clubhouse, with excellent organization of the evening by Alice (ex-Commodore), helped by club members - Thanks for all your help and support during my stay, Alice!

It's been great to be able to catch up with old friends in the Bay area and also to make new ones during this stay.

Yesterday (Wednesday), I was guest of Zia Ahari (Rear Commodore, SF) at a CCA lunch meeting at Marin YC withTom Wylie, well-known boat-builder, as speaker - very interesting, despite a projector breakdown! Zia made the announcement that I was being awarded the CCA's 2013 'Blue Water Medal' - to be presented in NewYork next March - quite an honour! - and I'm looking forward to visiting NewYork for the Awards Dinner at the New York Y.C. - itself an interesting venue.

Wednesday of last week, I was visited by some radio hams - we'd spoken several times on HF radio during my RTW sail, but now we were able to meet up over lunch...Rusty, W6OAT has generously volunteered to be my 'QSL Manager' for all the many radio contacts made on my way around, confirming the contacts I've made, and Jim, K9YC, has been designing and organizing my QSL card - he lives high up above Santa Cruz, in the mountains, among big redwood trees which provide a superb support for his several high aerials!

SFYC - cold, foggy mornings..., warm, sunny afternoons...

Thursday 24th October 2013 - Belvedere Cove, San Francisco Bay
I've been made very welcome here at the San Francisco Y.C. - the oldest yacht club W of the Mississipi, I'm told. The current well-protected, sunny premises here in Belvedere Cove date from 1934, the Club having relocated from its former facility in Sausalito. The Yacht Club was founded in 1869 in China Basin in San Francisco.
Making landfall last Friday after a fast (6-day) offshore sail down from Cape Flattery, and being well settled in before the weekend, proved to be excellent timing - Friday evenings seem to be always very well-attended at the club, so I met a lot of members .   I was told all about the Leukemia Cup Regatta (the big sailing event of the year) due to take place on Sunday, with major fund-raising Auctions and Dinner (a mere $1,000 per ticket!) on Saturday  evening, and was encouraged to join Bob, Torill and Soren who were due to go over on the Committee Boat the next morning to Sausalito, to fuel up ready for the Regatta on Sunday.
The invitation turned out to be ideal for allowing us to get to the keel-laying ceremony (where I met up with friends Rob & LaDonna) in Sausalito on Saturday afternoon  for the brigantine 'Matthew Turner', It will become the San Francisco Bay area's Tall Ship and is set to be a major educational vehicle, enabling local youngsters (and 'oldsters'!) to take part in its construction and, in two years' time, its sailing programme.

                                          2013-10-19-ladonna-keel-laying-sausalito (photo: LaDonna Buback)

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The after-dinner speakers at the Leukemia Cup Dinner were Gary Jobson and Ben Ainslie - both great, experienced sailors, in their different ways!    I was thrilled to get the chance to meet up with 'Sir Ben'  and shake hands with him after being allowed to slip in to watch the two of them discussing the events of the America's Cup racing that Ben had been so involved in as tactician onboard 'Oracle', with Gary commentating so well for NBC.   (What an amazing turn-around... and what great videos of fast, aggressive racing - I finally got to see them on Youtube to appreciate how well covered and presented the racing had been!)   Ben brought his sailing jacket to the Dinner and it was auctioned off for $15,000 ....
The next day saw fairly light winds but enough for a total of 80 boats to enjoy the racing, with the start delayed slightly to let the morning fog disperse safely from the race course....     I was invited out to watch but already had a prior engagement at a CCA (Cruising Club of America) lunch which had been arranged by my kind host here, John Sanford.  The lunch meeting was thoroughly enjoyable and gave me the chance to meet several local CCA members (all experienced cruisers) and answer questions.   The rest of the day was spent in lovely sunshine, meeting and chatting with people, enjoying the music, barbecue and lively atmosphere.
I seem to be needing to see to a real mix of things ... Had a long telephone interview on Tuesday with a journalist for the RYA Magazine, preparing for a story in the Winter issue; I'm trying to sort out dealing with the damaged genoa (likely to need replacing); still trying to catch up with a lot of past emails (and trying to keep on top of present ones); slowly trying to get the boat better organised down below and seeing to different items on deck (there's chafe on several lines - replacements needed but there's nowhere really close by to do that); trying to complete an item on the use of Jordan series drogues for 'Yachting World'.

I also need to get to the watermaker under the aft bunk, after Zia Ahari (Rear-Commodore of SF CCA) organised meeting up with Bill Edinger who kindly offered to see to it.  The Spectra is a great 12V watermaker (I've the Cape Horn, with two pumps) and I've always found it to be reliable, but I've not treated it very well recently, so although it's still making water when it's run, it's almost certainly in need of servicing - but first I need to get access to it... the aft cabin is totally cluttered up with gear that has been stored off the boat for 2-3 years and is awaiting my attention...

I got side-tracked Wednesday - met up with a small group of women headed by Cissy, about to go out for a short sail in the Bay.  They persuaded me to join them on 'Q' - Glenn's lovely traditional-looking boat which he only uses for day-sailing/racing - but what fun!   We went over to Sausalito to look at several lovely old boats from the water (some had come over from the East coast just to be here for the America's Cup) and then finally found some wind and had a great sail until it was time to come in - we got going at over 8 kt a few times and I enjoyed taking the tiller for a bit.... great to have a self-tacking jib!
I'm finding it quite difficult to focus on work and repairs with so many friendly people around ...    it's so much easier just to socialize and/or relax!
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Some photos of autumn foliage - some lovely-coloured trees near the Royal Victoria Y.C.in October :
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Leaving Juan de Fuca Strait in a flat calm - sunset over Cape Flattery:
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and the view over to the north, towards the SW of Vancouver Island - near the Strait entrance:

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Friday 18th October -Day 7 - landfall at Belvedere , close by Tiburon, at the San Francisco Y.C.

Friday 18th October 2013

I'm writing this from a sunny, warm  Belvedere Cove, on the Tiburon Peninsula, in San Francisco Bay, where I'm tied up at the San Francisco Y.C. with a pretty, steep, tree-covered waterfront area in view.

m_IMG_4102 View of Tiburon from sunny SFYC dock in Belvedere Cove
After strong wind picking up overnight, making me reef right down in order to slow down from 7-8 kt and avoid possible entry with a strong ebb current, the wind suddenly died away totally on getting closer to the entrance channel to the Golden Gate and there was thick fog.... Motor on! Useful to have the radar, as well as AIS, on display to help avoid the big ships around, as well as several fast, small fishing boats heading out to sea which only showed up on radar or when within several boat lengths away.

I kept well off to one side of the main shipping lanes leading toward the GG Bridge - which was almost completely hidden from view until we reached the Bay area itself.
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We passed close to fogbound, rocky-but-steep-to Points Bonita and Diablo.  Then the fog cleared as we rounded the Golden Gate CG station and Point Cavallo.
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It was bright and sunny to the N of the bridge & on the E side of the Bay, but Alcatraz, SF city and everywhere to the S were still hidden in the thick fog bank, with little of the bridge showing except the N end leading to Sausalito and the top of the N and central piers.

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Got a little sleep overnight before we got close to the main ship channel so I'll get to bed early tonight - in the meantime, enjoying a nice long shower! Had a good long chat over coffee with John Sanford and his friend Bob, who both met me & took my lines on entry. I've already had to discard a layer or two - it's definitely a lot warmer here than in the Pacific NW and at sea on passage.

I'll be busy catching up with urgent boatwork & emails (still lots!), in between relaxing and seeing some friends here. I'm looking forward to making use of my fold-up bike and getting some exercise during my time here.

Thursday 17th October -Day 6 to SFYC

Thursday 17th October 2013

Sky cleared overnight - nice clear blue sky now but air still feels cold.

Winds eased this morning - around 15kt so pleasant conditions and making good speed under full mains'l - with genoa having ripped in half, have staysail in use.

Shackle holding line tensioning the gas-filled rod kicker broke overnight - heard a loud bang and wondered what it was! Couldn't see much in darkness although initially all looked OK from cockpit (mast, boom etc OK!!!) Found a replacement shackle - old one was impressively broken! Not too much of a problem - have topping lift I could use to support boom, if needed.

2pm Getting closer inshore now: 55ml SW of Point Arena, 80ml W of Bodega Hbr, 87 ml WNW of Point Reyes.... 110 ml WNW of entrance channel to Golden Gate and SF Hbr.

Had a big lunch of ham, eggs, onions and mushrooms with cherry tomatoes - nice!

Lots of shipping around - already had to get on VHF to make sure "MOL Efficiency" didn't get too close as they headed out from SF Bay & shortly afterwards there was another - not usually a problem once we've made contact. Most ships stay well away -good to be transmitting in this situation!

10pm Well, so much for expecting light wind -it's been up to 25kt at times for last few hours & we've been making 7-8 kt regularly. Means we might have made the Golden Gate too soon, before the strong ebb has died away so I've just tied in two reefs to try to slow us down. Also had to change course slightly to avoid a big yellow buoy I suddely realised was right on our path! Making sure we stay well clear of both the Cordell Bank and the Farallon Islands as we get closer in.

Sleep will be in snatches tonight with so much shipping and obstacles to look out for - present ETA at Golden Gate is around 7-8am (LW slack), although if wind does die down, we could arrive later. Max flood is around 10:30am, so that would work fine... From the Golden Gate, it's not far to the San Francisco Y.C. in Tiburon, where I'm expected.

11pm Wind down to 20kt and our speed down as well - SOG ~6kt. Looking good for catching flood through GG.

24hr distance run at 8:20pm was 145 n.ml.

Wednesday 16th October - Day 5- heading for the 'barn door'.

Wednesday 16th October

Dull, grey and cloudy all day. Spent a time on deck this morning. Finally stowed the pole, despite rough seas making foredeck work difficult and wet. Good to have the stays'l available but it's a much smaller headsail than the big genoa.

As the wind eased somewhat this morning, I shook out first reef 2, then reef 1. Wind is not very consistent, varying this afternoon and tonight between 13-18kt, so boat speed also highly variable. Presently 5.3kt in 14kt of N wind. Having got up well before dawn to gybe the mains'l and change course, I finally managed a couple of hours of much-needed sleep early this afternoon.

Made several contacts on radio - gets busy on 40m in the evening, with lots of possible contacts. 20m is generally better during the day. Found the (USA) Air Forces Flyers Net just before 9am - welcomed me even though I'm clearly not connected with aviation, although 'Nereida' flies well through the water at times!!

Occurred to me I haven't been checking on our daily distances run... With the strong conditions and good speed, we've made 24hr distances under sail alone of 143,163,134 n.ml. over the last three days - a lot better than when trying to make landfall in the light winds of June/July!

I keep looking at our ETA at the Golden Gate on Friday. A strong flood tide (good), mid-morning, of 3.4kt is followed by an even stronger ebb tide (bad!), mid-afternoon, of 4.6kt - so it's vital to get the timing of our arrival at the Gate right- ideally, somewhere between low water slack and high water slack (a 'window' of just under 6hrs). An average of 5.5kt would get us there just before midday - fine if we can manage it but wind is forecast to die right down, so we'll probably end up motor-sailing - nice to have that option!

Tuesday 15th October 2013 - Day 4 to San Francisco

Tuesday 15th October 2013

Thought the wind was easing around midday - it went down to 22kt for a short time - but it's now frequently back up to 28+ kt and the big following seas are still up around 2.5m every 6 seconds. It's another sunny day, although it doesn't feel so very warm. We're still being thrown around quite often so I keep having to tidy up.

Was up early this morning for radio - made contact with Japan and Australia, although the Aus stns couldn't copy me too well so it was useful to have a relay (Bruce, K9LOF, in Illinois) helping.

Making use of my time by trying to catch up with lots of outstanding emails - some from quite a time ago.

Solar panels are doing well in the daytime, putting in up to 14A, but the genset has started playing up and dying after a short time of running, after having a problem exciting. The oil level is fine and I've released the actuator spindle that was a bit stuck and stopping it from speeding up and exciting initially, so I'll try it again tonight..... seems a pity to run it now, in bright sunshine, when the solar power input is high.

I was interested to hear from Rick, VE7TK, that he'd spotted my position (from my AIS transmission) on http://shipfinder.co/, rather than on marinetraffic.com. He used the MMSI number, which is 235070185, to locate us. We were well offshore, W of Portland, Oregon - a busy port with lots of shipping showing at the time on my AIS screen.

Later: Generator ran fine this evening - a relief! Rough seas and strong wind still - up to 27kt with occasional lulls around 22kt. Passing Cape Mendocino over 150ml off to avoid possible stronger seas and wind that are likely closer in.

Wednesday 16th October

6am Came below after gybing the mains'l and turning 60 degrees to port - headed directly towards San Francisco now. Dark starry sky - moon set a while ago. Speed down a bit in 22kt NNE wind. Clutch not holding 2nd reef line tightly - having to hold the line on a winch.

Time for some more sleep - no ships in sight but expect to see them as we get closer in to land and San Francisco.

14th October 2013 Strong wind and rough seas off Oregon, approaching Cape Blanco.

Monday 14th October

A lovely sunny day - but steep, short seas are continuing to knock us about a lot . The following seas have built to about 2.5m/8ft and I decided by mid-morning, in view of the 20+kt winds we were already experiencing, with possibly stronger wind forecast, to head further off Cape Blanco - notorious, as is Cape Mendocino 145 ml to its south, for strong weather and nasty seas. We should be passing Cape Blanco about 120 ml off.

3pm I went up on deck intending to tie in the second reef in the stronger conditions - and found the genoa badly ripped down its centre. I managed to furl it in past the ripped section, leaving just a small amount unfurled - I'd poled it out last night as darkness was falling. We've been making 6-7 knots in the good NNE wind.

I then noticed the large butane tank lashed on deck had come loose in the lumpy conditions - it was quickly tied down with a strong rope. I normally prefer not to stow anything on deck on offshore passages, except possibly the deflated dinghy - this incident showed exactly why that's a good idea.... (I 'd expected that, by now, the butane would have been finished so I could throw away the tank, but I've not done much cooking of late!)

Just to make sure everything happened in threes, the third reef line had come undone - I'd clearly not tied it in well enough when the new sail was put in place last Monday. So that had to be dealt with as well.

5:30pm (PDT) Position: 43:55N, 126:38W. DTF: 515 n.ml. Wind N-NNE 25kt, speed (SOG) 6.3kt, course (COG) 204T, swell NNW 2.5m - close togther, every 5s , so they're very steep-faced, making for an uncomfortable motion. Sun getting low - time to eat before it gets dark: a nice roast chicken to finish.

Evenings and early mornings are times for ham radio chats - sometimes making use of my new callsign. While my transmissions are usually good, I have a lot of noise on frequency, making receiving difficult if I don't switch off my instruments... I wish I could find a solution to that problem! I've put ferrites all over the place, to no avail... Maybe I need to put a lot more in place?

7.40pm Well - so much for radio chats - I've finally managed to tie in the 2nd reef - had a bit of a struggle, not having released the lazyjacks enough, so things got a bit tangled up and then the jammer holding the lazyjack on the mast jammed completely and took an age to release - but I finally did it ..... so, "by the light of the silvery moon", we finally got things under control ... Now for some food ... Wind is a good Force 6 - up to 27kt - and speed is around 7kt downwind, but we're no longer over-canvassed & our motion feels better, despite the waves still being big, making us surf often to over 9kt .

October 13th - Canadian Thanksgiving

Happy Thanksgiving to my Canadian friends!

Leaving Juan de Fuca Strait in a flat calm - sunset over Cape Flattery:
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 and a view north over to Vancouver Island:   

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I hope you're enjoying the same lovely sunshine as we're getting here onboard 'Nereida' as we make our way S, well off the Washington/Oregon coast. We rounded Cape Flattery last night as darkness was falling, having passed Neah Bay at sunset - glorious colours and calm water with slight ocean swell. There was almost no wind in the Strait both Friday and Saturday, so I had to motor - nice to have the option of doing that, instead of drifting around helplessly...!!

I left Philbrook's dock at Van Isle marina on Tues 1st October. having delayed partly due to a forecast of bad weather with very high winds - sure enough, Sunday evening (29Sept) saw very strong gusty conditions but we were perfectly safe.

It was a pleasant short trip over to the Visitors' dock at Royal Victoria Y.C., where they'd kindly offered me moorage for my time with them until my proposed departure from Canada around 11th October, and my stay there has been made most enjoyable by the very friendly welcome I've received. Thanks to all of you who made that happen!

The only downside to my stay has been finally taking back several items I'd offloaded while making my last two nonstop RTW attempts - very many thanks to Michael Cooper and to Ian & Susan Grant for use of their garage space. I'm looking forward to pausing somewhere long enough soon, to sort out the storage problem I now have, as a result of having also picked up doors, cushions, dinghy and outboard from Rob Parish in Port Townsend in August! ( Think I need a bigger boat!)

My time was made good use of while at RVicYC, apart from working on radio (Thanks, Doug & Rick!) and other problems onboard, by preparation for several presentations on my circumnavigations. I finally gave two at Sidney N.Saanich Y.C. - so many people wanted to come on the first evening I agreed to give a second - which was again over-booked. I also gave a talk to the Thermopylae Club in the old Maritime Museum in Victoria - an interesting venue... I felt just slightly uncomfortable speaking from the seat of the 'Hanging Judge' in the old Assize Courtroom... All three were enjoyable events - thanks to those who organized the evenings and to all who came. It was great to meet up with some of the people who'd been following and supporting me on my way around.

The trees are looking magnificent in their autumn colours now and I enjoyed seeing them on my trips out to friends' places for evenings spent with them.
m_IMG_4034
m_IMG_4035
m_IMG_4036
m_IMG_4037
Despite all the other things I was busy with, I just about managed to find time to study for my Canadian Ham radio licence - nights got rather shortened as I burned the candle at both ends reading through a lot of material and practising exam questions. I was delighted with the news that I'd passed the Basic exam with Honours (91%!) - Alan Mallett had very kindly organized the exam (which I sat Friday 4th October at RVicYC), having provided me, soon after my return in July, with all the necessary material to learn in readiness. So I now have the callsigns VA7NER (shore-based) and VE0JSJ (offshore) to add to my US callsign KC2IOV. That enables me to have unrestricted use of the available Ham frequencies.

With a new mainsail from Leitch and McBride delivered by Paul last Monday, a quick visit to Costco and no stormy weather forecast, and having regretfully turned down a Thanksgiving Dinner invitation due to pressure of time, I got underway Friday afternoon and cleared Customs into the USA that evening - a delightfully easy telephone experience from the Fuel Dock in Port Angeles - the best ever!! Weather crossing the Strait of Juan de Fuca was dull, cold and damp on Friday, but by 2pm on Saturday, after heavy overnight rain and an unexpectedly long sleep (the expected early awakening by people needing fuel by 7am didn't happen), the sky had cleared and the sun was out - quite a few logs and lumps of kelp to avoid in the Strait but a lovely exit from the Strait into a slight ocean swell and lots of shipping to keep an eye on overnight.

I'm about to turn off the engine, having been gently motor-sailing up to now, with the wind having finally increased to around 15kt from the N. We're running downwind and it gets very rolly at times, but it will be nice to have a peaceful sail overnight and on to the San Francisco Y.C. in Tiburon, in San Francisco Bay.... ETA Friday 18th if all goes well.

I'm posting my usual regular position reports (see 'Travels' page on www.svnereida.com) and also checking in daily to the Pacific Seafarers' Net. It was great to make unexpected contact last night with Glenn Wakefield - I wish him luck and hope all goes well for him on this, his second West-about nonstop RTW attempt from Victoria, B.C.

Mid-August to end of September 2013

Plenty of lovely, sunny, often hot, blue skies and a lot of travelling around over the period. Not too surprisingly, with so much else going on, not as much achieved on board as I'd hoped for.

From Westport, and with a beautifully clean bottom allowing excellent speed, it was time to travel over to Friday Harbor to get a USA Cruising Permit for the coming months. It was good to meet up with Sue & Jim Corenman who patiently waited for a very late lunch while it took a record, unbelievable, two hours to complete my USA paperwork.... I'd had to make an early (5.30am) start to avoid low water in the shallow area around the Westport Marina haulout and then spent a short time at anchor off Sidney Spit so as to avoid being headed by a strong ebb current in Spieden Channel around the N end of San Juan Island.

It was a short onward trip from Friday Hbr through Wasp Passage, avoiding some rocky outcrops around Crane Island, and on to Orcas Island for a visit to friends and a dinner party there, with an enjoyable drive around Orcas Island the following day. I had to be away before 10am to avoid a strong foul tide (flooding N) through the San Juan Channel as I headed S, through a partly-foggy Juan de Fuca Strait full of sealife - it was lovely to see so many birds, seals and sealions. (photos: Exiting S from San Juan Channel;Whale Rocks)
View exiting S from San Juan Channel
Whale Rocks 20Aug2013

We made an excellent SOG (speed) in the flood tide passing by Pt Wilson, as we got close to Point Hudson. There I paused in the lovely, friendly wooden-boat town of Port Townsend, for a few sunny days - catching up with friends, getting the mainsail track insert repaired and finally retrieving doors, cushions, dinghy and outboard - all left in care of kind Rob Parish for nearly 3yrs - two circumnavigations, in fact! I had a helping hand one day from Gina who did a good job cleaning the decks of dried-on growth. (Photo: 'Fried egg' jellyfish in Pt Hudson marina)
'Fried egg' jellyfish in Pt Hudson marina
On my way N through the San Juan Islands again, a week later (Photos: Schooner 'Adventuress' from PT; Washington State ferry),
Beautiful schooner 'Adventuress' from PT 28Aug13
Washington ferry in San Juans 29Aug13
I spent a very enjoyable evening at West Sound marina, on Orcas Island, with John & Dorothy Guzzwell. Having heard so much about John over the last few years, it was a pleasure to meet him personally, although I have yet to read his book 'Trekka' in detail. Thanks, Betsy, for organizing the get-together and being such a welcoming hostess.

Another pre-dawn start the next day, clearing in to Canada at Bedwell Hbr before making for winding Active Pass on the flood tide, always an interesting, mind-concentrating passage, where I was pleased to avoid meeting up with any of the frequent, big, B.C. Ferries. (Photo: 'Coastal Inspiration')
m_'Coastal Inspiration' crossing Georgia Strait to Nanaimo

On nearing Gibson's several hours later, on the N side of the entrance to Howe Sound, I was met in Georgia Strait, not far from the harbour entrance, by a small flotilla - a lovely welcome back to Gibson's, arranged by CG volunteer Robyn with the help of the local CG & members of Gibson's Y.C. - who promptly made me an honorary member and presented me with their burgee! (Photos: Welcome to Gibsons!; View up Howe Sound)
Welcome to Gibsons 29Aug13
View up Howe Sound, past Gambier Island

Daytimes there were mainly spent on board, trying to make progress in sorting out 'Nereida' in between lots of chats with friendly passers-by. I did manage to complete a major service of the headsail furling gear - both are now very well-greased, although a vital screw was dropped into the water.... (replaced last week, courtesy of Steve Norbury, helpful MD of Selden UK)

A few walks, in between work, with Sassie, friends Tom & Maggie's lively dog, with blackberry-picking along the way, among the spectacular, Rockies-backed scenery of Howe Sound, and time disappeared all too quickly - I could have easily stayed on for a lot longer but time was pressing & I made for Vancouver, there finally to meet up at Fishermen's Wharf, on Granville Island, after a gap of several years, with friend Kevin and his new family. Excellent fish and chips, chats to the nearby fishermen and a budding solo sailor, a quick visit to the Saturday market.... again, I could easily have lingered on in the friendly, albeit wet and thundery, atmosphere overnight.... but moved on to Jericho Bay and a brief stopover at the Royal Vancouver Y.C. to meet up for a meal with more friends.

My timing seems to have been good in that most of the Club members were anchored off over much of the summer while the docks were replaced but have all just moved back again. While I was waiting for my slip to become available, I carried out a thorough calibration of my instruments, taking care to avoid the many anchored, empty cargo vessels in the Bay as we first turned in circles and then wiggled 'full steam ahead' in the calm spacious waters north of the Club.

An early start the next morning was needed to get the timing right for making a safe passage at the end of the ebb tide (close to Low Water slack) through rocky Porlier Pass after crossing back over Georgia Strait. We were en route to Saltspring Island, the largest of the Gulf Islands, where I was due to make a presentation to the island's Sailing Club in Ganges Hbr. The sky cleared nicely, and low-lying fog cleared away ahead of us, as we made our way the length of long, narrow Galiano Island and headed over towards Prevost Island before rounding up into Long Harbour on Saltspring. There I visited friend Ann's house for tea before finishing up at the S.C. dock later that afternoon - to be met by a very friendly group of members. I had a thoroughly pleasant stay at the Club, whose members really went out of their way to help me and make me feel welcome, and my presentation was filled to overflowing, with some people even having to be turned away, unfortunately, due to fire regulations...

Nereida was in safe hands while I flew to England for the Southampton Boat Show - always an enjoyable event, with lots of boats in the water to view, activities on the water, meeting up with people, bumping into friends and getting all kinds of boat problems discussed and resolved (Harry of The Rig Shop was his usual smiling helpful self!), ...this time with the addition of frequent congratulations from people, happy to see my successful nonstop RTW completion, at last.

Autumn has definitely arrived... both in England and B.C. ... but colours on nearby young maple trees are making up for the continual rain just now. I was amazed to spot that pressure had dropped to 991hPa on Saturday night, while writing this - a major depression is passing over with strong winds expected by Sunday night on Vancouver Island.

I've finally been able to meet up with Jamie Hansen of Philbrook's, to thank him personally for being so very helpful in July. (Photo)
Thanks to Jamie of Philbrook's for his generous help

He had sent Ryan to help with essential electrical work when Chris Eldridge generously repaired the welded joint on the pole-mounted radar, damaged by Southern Ocean wave action, when the wind-generator also came off its pole & ended up terminally damaged. I came over on Friday to Van Isle Marina in Tsehum Harbour, where Philbrook's are based, and was shown around the workplace and yard - they have a well-deserved reputation for excellent work.

This coming week I shall move on to accept the hospitality generously offered by the Royal Victoria Y.C. in Cadboro Bay, from where I plan to leave around 11-12th October to sail S well offshore to San Francisco - with a new mainsail, the material of the old one having given up the ghost after two circumnavigations.

In the meantime, I've lots to do on board, to be ready for passage-making again.... and I'm also busy preparing for the Canadian ham radio exam next Friday, preceded by a presentation at Sidney North Saanich Y.C. at 7pm on Thursday.  (I just heard that evening is fully-booked and I've been asked for a second evening to repeat the presentation...). It's a busy life, still!

Westport Marina - haul-out on 15th July 2013 - launched 17th August

A well-overdue recap of events since leaving Victoria Hbr on 15th July to make for Westport Marina - who very kindly donated a haul-out and hard standing - very many thanks for their kindness and generosity.

Photos showing "Nereida" in the slings of the hoist, with the hull and keel smothered in gooseneck barnacles - no wonder we were so slow at the end of our journey!

Haul-out at Westport m_Brad scraping off gooseneck barnacles m_Gooseneck barnacles - no wonder we were so slow! Under the keel
It's been a busy month of repairs and catching up, including a short but hectic visit back to the UK (see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrW6Hv5C4rE ) which, like British Columbia, has been enjoying some magnificent summer weather.   Many people have come by the boat on the hard to chat - always enjoyable, although it does slow down the work progress!
"Nereida" now has a beautifully-repaired, strong, steel radar support, thanks to Chris Eldridge, and some excellent electrical work has been done, thanks to Jamie at Philbrook's Boat Yard, who sent Ryan to sort out a variety of electrical issues, including helping Chris with the removal and re-routeing of the cables down inside the pole on which the radar and a number of other items are mounted - a difficult job made necessary by the welding which had to be done by Chris... but "Where there's a will, there's a way"...!
m_Chris & Ryan  -up the pole!
Similarly, Raymarine technicians Don and Levy, from CMC in Burnaby, came to check out a few instrument issues and upgrade the radar to the new digital system - I kept well out of the way while they struggled to complete running the new radar cable to the chart table - not an easy task with so many other wires in the way!   In testing out the autopilot, it was found that the steering system was misbehaving after four weeks of no use - grateful thanks to Rose & Robert for coming at short notice to sort that out ...
The Iridium problem has not been resolved - the main unit is 'dead' and the only way forward seems to involve an expensive replacement.
The Force 10 stove was taken (Thanks, Warren!) to Coquitlam, where they had offered to service it thoroughly, so it now has new gimbals and ignition system - it's a real pleasure to use and, with the stove out of its recess, I was able to take the chance to clean the area thoroughly.

m_Cleaning, before polishing I have been kept busy cleaning and polishing the topsides and applying antifouling.   Rose and Robert kindly spent a hardworking morning showing me how to get rid of some nasty marks on the topsides around the stern, with a helping hand being given by Shaun P, who removed some oily marks at the bow.   Gerry kindly volunteered to spend time sanding and later helped in applying a coat of antifouling.

"Nereida" is about to be re-launched today, looking pretty - on the outside, at least!   Many thanks to Brad Schmidt, the local Interlux rep, who kindly donated the Micron CSC bottom paint (and to the ever-helpful Elaine of Jensen's who approached him about it).

Down below, the boat is in a state of total chaos - the result of giving clear aft-cabin and chart-table access for the wiring efforts of Chris, Ryan, Don and Levy and delving into the forepeak to access bits and pieces.  I now have the difficult task of slowly getting things back into order and cleaning everywhere thoroughly - all inside surfaces are still covered in a thin film of salt and the deck is dirty from both the long passage and also from being on the hard for four weeks.   Fenders stowed in chain locker for over 8 months were filthy... but cleaned up nicely:

m_Dirty fenderm_nearly all cleaned

I still have the job of cleaning all kinds of lines - most are very salty - and replacing some which are well-worn.  The headsails have now been repaired (but are weakened) and the mainsail needs renewing - the material has totally degraded after two circumnavigations and is easily ripped - another expensive item.
So still plenty of work ahead - many items broke or needed fixing whilst on passage and all need to be dealt with now.   I'm still way behind on replying to emails, I've been asked to make several presentations and I'm also trying to find time to work towards an exam for a Canadian amateur radio licence.... Just not enough hours in each day!
Next week I plan to be in Port Townsend to see friends, retrieve some stored items and continue the mending, cleaning and organising process, before returning to B.C. to catch up with friends not seen up to now.

Videos and photos of overnight arrival, Victoria, 8th July 2013, and interviews following morning

m1.NEREIDA at Race Passage Jeanne Home Coming Victoria BC 7-7-13m2.Jeanne with Race Passage Lighthouse in background Home Coming Victoria BC 7-7-13 m3.NEREIDA at Race Passage against sunset 7-7-13
m4.NEREIDA Under tow by Prince of Whales boat from Finish Line at Breakwater to Empress Dock Jeanne Home Coming Victoria B.C. 8-7-13It's been a busy few days since arriving overnight early Monday morning, having drifted over the Finish line from Ogden Pt, at the entrance to Victoria Harbour, in a light land breeze that saved me from being becalmed a third night running!  I'd had a great sail in a good W wind during the afternoon, leading up to a glorious sunset soon after rounding the disturbed water by Race Rock, where I gather my AIS signal suddenly disappeared for no apparent reason, worrying quite a few friends keeping an eye on my progress....   Lots of cheering and noise as I crossed the line, from the two boats nearby and from the end of the breakwater.   Many thanks to all those supporters who waited around for a long time into the small hours to greet me after such a prolonged and frustrating delay - and to the many who presented me in the morning with lots of fresh fruit and flowers - lovely and much appreciated! 

Mark of 'Prince of Whales' took 'Nereida' alongside his boat full of friendly faces and safely delivered us to our Causeway slip within sight of the impressive Empress Hotel and the Parliament building.

I got to my bunk as dawn was breaking and at 8am, a pair of very friendly Customs officials arrived, so not much sleep - but it didn't seem to affect my high spirits and general well-being - I was on a high!!

By 10am, people were beginning to gather for the 10.30 'Press conference' which started with an unexpected presentation of an O.C.C. Award for my circumnavigation.  There were quite a few cameras and microphones as I answered a lot of questions about my journey, with several people later being shown around 'Nereida' afterwards, with more questions and answers.   The Harbour Authority have been very helpful over radio interviews, giving me use of their phone for those, as well as being helpful over Internet access while my computers had a problem.

I thoroughly enjoyed my first full night back on shore, with a lovely soak in a hot tub and a big, soft bed to sleep in after a nice meal - courtesy of Spinnakers.  Many thanks to Jak Mang for his help posting my daily 'blogs' and photos - especially more recently - and also to Mike (N7RY) and Robert (WA6AMK) & particularly Lor (W3QA) for help with position reports and to Rick  (VE7TK) for his recent help with my 'blogs'.
I would like to thank Mark and Alan of "Prince of Whales' for their help and generosity during both my start and finish and John Green for coming out to meet me near Race Rock and staying close despite the lack of wind for quite a time.   Also Ian Grant, who put a lot of time and effort into organising the details surrounding my arrival, and the Greater Victoria Harbour Authority who donated my slip for the week.

A lot of very friendly and supportive people have come by 'Nereida' over the week or have stopped me as I've passed by them around the Waterfront here - it's been great to chat to them all - and I was grateful when two Canadian Navy officers came by to sort out my computer Internet access problem - word had got out about that and they were asked to come over to see if they could help - thanks to their commanding officer, Cdr Mark Sheppard.  Others generously donating help have included the Royal Victoria Y.C., Shawn Dunand of Vela Yachts and Dave Irving at Westport Marina (where 'Nereida' is to be hauled out and placed on the hard this coming week, so that a start can be made on boatwork - lots of TLC  needed to get her back into order and looking pretty...).   CMC came over from Burnaby to sort out my Raymarine instrumentation - thanks to them and to Derek Gilbert for that - and several friends have seen to quite a bit of laundry for me - thanks!

My 'email team' of cheerful, helpful amateur radio operators are now out of a job - very many thanks to Rick (WA1RKT), Tom (N5TW) and Jim (WB2REM) for all their time and help with that since 11th May up to my landfall...  Tom was hoping for 1000 hits - Did we make it?  If we didn't, We got very close!

Weather here in Victoria has been consistently sunny and I'm hoping slowly to get 'Nereida'back in order - lots to do and it will take quite a time to organise.

I've been asked by quite a few people for photos and videos of my arrival and news - so below I've listed a variety I've come across.

Thanks to many of you reading this for your ongoing support -I've really appreciated that as I've sailed around.

http://bc.ctvnews.ca/video?clipId=961628
http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/british-columbia/story/2013/07/08/bc-socrates-circumnavigate-globe.html
http://globalnews.ca/news/700534/oldest-female-sailor-circles-the-globe/
http://globalnews.ca/news/703000/victoria-senior-completes-solo-non-stop-trip-around-the-world/
http://www.cheknews.ca/?bckey=AQ~~,AAAA4mHNTzE~,ejlzBnGUUKY1gXVPwEwEepl35Y795rND&bclid=975107450001&bctid=2534794255001
https://plus.google.com/photos/115077494868953019748/albums/5898658932352824385/5898671037934484898?pid=5898671037934484898&oid=115077494868953019748
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=0X2jyYeMoUE .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=4aJdL6oZ1oM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yLUp8eKnpE8
http://forums.qrz.com/showthread.php?397609-Jeanne-Socrates-KC2IOV-completes-solo-non-stop-circumnavigation-of-the-globe
http://www.timescolonist.com/news/local/solo-sailor-returns-to-victoria-after-global-journey-oldest-woman-to-accomplish-feat-1.392036
http://www.timescolonist.com/news/local/oldest-woman-to-sail-around-world-solo-non-stop-ends-journey-in-victoria-1.391809
http://www.timescolonist.com/news/local/solo-sailor-passes-cape-of-good-hope-1.74583
http://www.timescolonist.com/opinion/editorial-solo-sailor-sets-example-of-grit-1.432429
http://www.itv.com/news/london/story/2013-07-08/woman-sails-into-record-books/
http://www.itv.com/news/london/story/2013-02-13/oaps-round-the-world-adventure/
http://www.itv.com/news/london/2012-10-22/ealing-woman-bids-for-sailing-record/
http://liquiddaysphoto.photoshelter.com/gallery-slideshow/G0000iuekCUtlt9k/?start=


Nereida crosses the Line

Jeanne crossed the finish line in Victoria Monday morning between 2 and 3 am.  The official time will be published later.  She is tied up safely in Victoria Harbor.